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E-minor7

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Not a coated string-type at all - I'm a bronze and phosphor ditto person, , , , okay, and a closet 1 case silk'n'steeler.

 

Anyway last Friday I bought a set of Martin Lifespans to compare my own guitar to an almost identical, but not forward shifted model on the shop-wall.

Though I prefer old or semi-old strings, this was the best way to A/B the 2 as the other new one had these on - and the shop shop-staff was generous enough to let me play.

(mind you I had serious trading-thoughts - read GAS - here)

 

The Q is about something related, yet completely different :

 

How would I reduce the amount of coating on the Lifespans.

In an alternative way I kind of dig them, , , or feel curious about how they will develop, but would like to wipe some of the chemicals off.

 

So what fluid, oil or paste do you recommend, , , , naphtha !?!

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Naphtha could be used for the unwound strings, I've done this to get oils off, and to restore some zing, but wear earplugs & be prepared for some ear-splitting frequencies.

 

As far as the wound strings, depends if the string is coated, then wound (Elixir Nano's), or wound-then-coated (Elixir Poly's). Do you still have the clipped off part of the wound string to see if the coating would come off on it when wiped with a clean paper towel and naphtha?

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For PTFE exists no solvent. Only chemical reactions, most of them calling for extremely dangerous substances and in any case leading to extremely toxic products, can be conducted. All of them take high containment or are basically intended to kill humans like in ammunition, including unavoidable collateral damage.

 

Dry removing of PTFE is not recommended and is far more dangerous than playing these strings. Don't laugh - highly dispersed PTFE is toxic and will fluorinate organic substances. The dust caused by playing PTFE-coated strings is offensive to the lungs when inhaled, and this can't be excluded on principal.

 

Removing through wet abrasion is the way to go. Naphtha can be of help to avoid bringing dust into the air. Discard the cloths used properly. They will contain fluorinated naphtha through chemical reaction with crushed PTFE.

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For PTFE exists no solvent. Only chemical reactions, most of them calling for extremely dangerous substances and in any case leading to extremely toxic products, can be conducted. All of them take high containment or are basically intended to kill humans like in ammunition, including unavoidable collateral damage.

 

Dry removing of PTFE is not recommended and is far more dangerous than playing these strings. Don't laugh - highly dispersed PTFE is toxic and will fluorinate organic substances. The dust caused by playing PTFE-coated strings is offesive to the lungs when inhaled, and this can't be excluded on principal.

 

Removing through wet abrasion is the way to go. Naphtha can be of help to avoid bringing dust into the air. Discard the cloths used properly. They will contain fluorinated naphtha through chemical reaction with crushed PTFE.

 

Yikes, , , almost knew I had drama coming. Guess the way forward is a boiling-hot-water-kitchen-sponge.

1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 further to 100, , , and I'll do it, thanx, capmaster.

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No, but had these in the binoculars for a while without actually finding them.

 

Look to the bottom right -

 

https://www.martingu...-flexible-core/

 

The GHS Silk 'n' Bronze will be rememmsp_thumbup.gifbered - will go on my little 12-fretter

I used to use 'em on my little 'new model' Washburn - and will again if I ever get around to getting its neck reset.

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I was getting A's for Chemistry at school about 45 years ago - before the explosion :lol:

 

 

 

I am unclear what you want, Em7. Do you want them to become 'lightly' coated, to match the older strings on the guitar in the shop? It would probably be easier, and safer according to Capmaster, to just buy and install new strings for both guitars?

 

 

BluesKing777.

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I was getting A's for Chemistry at school about 45 years ago - before the explosion :lol:

You should definitely chime in msp_smile.gif

 

I am unclear what you want, Em7.

 

The A/B is over BK.

The guitar in the shop had these strings on and I bought my set on Friday to make them settle before testing.

Spent 20 minutes today in a box goin' back'n'forth tuning down etc.

They were too similar to take action, so a happy status quo here.

 

Now I just wanna get the coating off my strings - or rather reduce the layer to see what happens then.

As stated above, I believe the boiled-hot-water-sponge did it. Btw. added a drop of dish washing soap.

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Hopefully, your boiling treatment didn't get too hot, as per this bit of Teflon (PTFE) propaganda:

 

"In the 40-plus year history of Teflon® non-stick coatings, there have been no reported cases of consumers contracting polymer fume fever or other health effects as a result of in-home normal cooking use. If, however, Teflon® non-stick coatings are allowed to heat to abnormally high temperatures such as 500°F (260°C), the non-stick cookware can emit fumes that may produce a temporary flu-like condition known as "polymer fume fever." This condition seems to require no treatment and has no long-term health effects associated with it. Care should be taken while using any cookware, coated or not, as fumes can occur from abnormal use"

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Can you elaborate. .

Sure, I guess. Not certain what to say - if I don't cover the right thing, I'll be glad to take another try☺ I own a parlor-size turn-of-the-century (not the latest turn...) Washburn guitar with a 'New Model' label inside the soundhole, which - given its age - I've always found rather amusing. It's a neat little rosewood guitar with a sweet tone that I acquired in the mid-1990s. They've never been a high $ item, as far as I'm aware. Silk 'n Bronze strings were my choice because they gave a rich, mellow sound without putting undue stress on the instrument. It has gradually come to the point of needing a neck set, but I keep putting it off - repair costs the same no matter the guitar's value and all that. The strings didn't contribute to the neck issue, except in the abstract (if you don't string 'em, they won't need resets😃).

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Hopefully, your boiling treatment didn't get too hot, as per this bit of Teflon (PTFE) propaganda:

He he,, , , but I had a petit cough before the job began.

And have to say that comin' back after a second break made me think the wiping must continue tomorrow.

Believe a hair came off - it needs two.

So much for my scientific research - I already feel like the P in professor. .

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Sure, I guess. Not certain what to say - if I don't cover the right thing, I'll be glad to take another try☺ I own a parlor-size turn-of-the-century (not the latest turn...) Washburn guitar with a 'New Model' label inside the soundhole, which - given its age - I've always found rather amusing. It's a neat little rosewood guitar with a sweet tone that I acquired in the mid-1990s. They've never been a high $ item, as far as I'm aware. Silk 'n Bronze strings were my choice because they gave a rich, mellow sound without putting undue stress on the instrument. It has gradually come to the point of needing a neck set, but I keep putting it off - repair costs the same no matter the guitar's value and all that. The strings didn't contribute to the neck issue, except in the abstract (if you don't string 'em, they won't need resets).

They probably are pretty close to silk'n'steel, , , but worth trying.

The S'n'S I use have a 11,5 high E.

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Strange smoke in em7's kitchen

No smoke, but lots of steam in the cooking-zone.

Had to take the Lifespans off the HD-28V - coated steel is like watching a naked woman through transparent plastic. It's not for me.

 

Now the question is if the pot ever can be used for food again without intoxicating my inside.

A bit worried here, , , especially as I did the same to a set of Elixirs in that same pot 1 or 2 years ago.

 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bronze, oh clean bronze, , , you superb material for western guitar strings

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Have to admit, Capmaster's words on PTFE (Teflon) did make me think twice about using coated strings. However, I will continue to use Elixirs on certain guitars (Nanowebs, not the shed-happy Polywebs), mostly because of their less-mentioned benefits; less string noise (squeak), and seeing how bridge plates get chewed up each time a new set of ball ends get tensioned up to them, and liking that to happen only two or three times a year, as opposed to ten-plus times annually.

 

Regarding your lab equipment/cookware, perhaps Cap could once again chime in on what's going on at the molecular level, but a session or two with hot boiling water should do the trick. As was mentioned in the pro-Tef propaganda back on reply #15, unless you'd exceeded 500°F (260°C), you should be ok. A greater Teflon risk would probably be found by using a Teflon-coated skillet that's had metal utensils used on it, causing particles to eventually find their way into food.

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