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The BEST Nut for your 2015 Gibson


Revolution Six
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I have a 2015 SG Standard, this guitar is FAN-TAS-TIC ! The inlays are not plastic, they are made with real Mother of pearl .

 

Very resonant, very good finish, all 2015 Gibson I played are very good instruments.

 

The adjustable nut is a very good idea but I don' t like the material. I installed a Graph Tech TUSQ XL adjustable nut, nice vintage look and great sustain, this great nut is PnP

 

 

sg_sta26.jpg

 

sg_sta25.jpg

Edited by Revolution Six
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Guest Farnsbarns

Cool nut.

 

I hate to disappoint but I'm pretty sure your inlays are the usual cellulose nitrate.

 

Upon searching I see them descibed as just that, and pearl, and mother of pearl and abalone. The guys who write the specs appear to guess at such things. I see all sorts of errors, ommisions and contradictions.

 

I hope they are MOP.

Edited by Farnsbarns
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This again?

 

I'm glad you like your new nut. However, I'll say what I said last time this picture was posted.

The manufacturer should be compelled to prove the claims for 'increased harmonic content' and 'tuning stability'.

 

Only open strings will sound any different, and tuning stability is determined by the tuners. In the case of the Gibson Zero Fret nut there has been no problems with binding in the nut.

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tuning stability is determined by the tuners.

 

except, it's not, at least...not the way your post implies. 99% of the time stability issues are from the string sticking in the nut slot. even cheap die-cast tuners don't slip. the reason a roller nut combined with locking tuners creates stability is because

1) no binding at the nut

2) less winds on the post

 

so no, tuning stability is not determined by the tuners as much as the nut itself. the tuner's effect on tuning stability is only through required amount of winds on the post. as the winds on a conventional tuning post tighten/relax from sticking in the nut you get issues. locking tuners, having no winds at all (if used properly) do not exhibit this tendency. if you were to forgo the roller nut and not use the locking mechanism, they would function the same as any other tuner, and it would be the nut which creates the instability, as well as the string conforming to the shape of the post.

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except, it's not, at least...not the way your post implies. 99% of the time stability issues are from the string sticking in the nut slot. even cheap die-cast tuners don't slip. the reason a roller nut combined with locking tuners creates stability is because

1) no binding at the nut

2) less winds on the post

 

so no, tuning stability is not determined by the tuners as much as the nut itself. the tuner's effect on tuning stability is only through required amount of winds on the post. as the winds on a conventional tuning post tighten/relax from sticking in the nut you get issues. locking tuners, having no winds at all (if used properly) do not exhibit this tendency. if you were to forgo the roller nut and not use the locking mechanism, they would function the same as any other tuner, and it would be the nut which creates the instability, as well as the string conforming to the shape of the post.

 

As I stated in my post above:

 

In the case of the Gibson Zero Fret nut there has been no problems with binding in the nut.
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Does the GForce work perfectly ?

 

mine has no gforce... if you were asking me

 

Does this Graph Tech TUSQ XL adjustable nut fit in the zero fret nut slot that is already on the guitars, or do you have to remove that as if replacing the entire thing?

If it replaces the metal one from gibson, what size fits a 15 lp studio, (with no gforce).

https://gyazo.com/fa6f5cabd4cf36906a0f6db4266e1aa4

Edited by Roach
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im still having massive tuning problems with the zero fret titanium nut replacement for my 2015 LP Studio.

 

What is going wrong?

 

What string gauges are you using?

What tuners? Are you making enough winds about the posts?

Are the new strings stretched sufficiently?

Have you set the zero fret nut height higher than regular nut?

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What is going wrong?

 

What string gauges are you using?

What tuners? Are you making enough winds about the posts?

Are the new strings stretched sufficiently?

Have you set the zero fret nut height higher than regular nut?

 

i had mentioned my problem before and i cant find the thread or post cause its too old...i use 10-42 daddario XL.

i have the titanum replacement for the original brass one i have no gforce but i have had 21:1 ratio gotoh

tuners professionally installed by luthier who has worked on my titanum nut and this problem but did not

solve it. i am using daddario friction remover lube on nut and bridge,

THE PROBLEM IS the low e and the a strings. Ill tune either one to pitch or just a bit flat and then the

other one goes sharp almost another semitone. so ill tune down then up to the note or just flat and the

other string goes way sharp...it is nearly impossible to tune it and i am on the verge of giving up entirely

on playing because i cannot train my ear or voice when my reference cant even be in tune and im tired

of sounding like crap with a real gibson usa les paul just because i cannot tune it or keep it in tune and

yes i stretch the strings when installing them.

 

how many winds am i supposed to make? this last time i have 3 winds on E and 4 on the A OR just

a half wind shy of that... ill check the height but i know its higher just maybe in 64ths at the bridge end

of the fretboard and too much lower it would probably buzz at first frets the action

 

only answer i ever get is..."it shouldnt do that... SO im seriously considering this nut from this thread

cause my 2000 LP which has a bone nut has over time made its own grooves which are angled exactly

like this one here so the design is perfect... in theory...

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THE PROBLEM IS the low e and the a strings. Ill tune either one to pitch or just a bit flat and then the

other one goes sharp almost another semitone. so ill tune down then up to the note or just flat and the

other string goes way sharp...it is nearly impossible to tune it and i am on the verge of giving up entirely

on playing because i cannot train my ear or voice when my reference cant even be in tune and im tired

of sounding like crap with a real gibson usa les paul just because i cannot tune it or keep it in tune and

yes i stretch the strings when installing them.

 

how many winds am i supposed to make? this last time i have 3 winds on E and 4 on the A OR just

a half wind shy of that... ill check the height but i know its higher just maybe in 64ths at the bridge end

of the fretboard and too much lower it would probably buzz at first frets the action

 

only answer i ever get is..."it shouldnt do that... SO im seriously considering this nut from this thread

cause my 2000 LP which has a bone nut has over time made its own grooves which are angled exactly

like this one here so the design is perfect... in theory...

 

Since you are using regular (as Gibson would supply) strings there should be no binding in the titanium nut. Though to be sure, check that the nut is installed the correct way round.

 

Ok. The strings are stretched, so there should be no de-tuning going on there.

 

You didnt say whether the nut height was ok.

Have you set the zero fret nut height higher than regular nut?
though the problem you describe should not be affected by that.

 

Three string winds on the posts is fine for the low E & A strings.

 

 

 

This sounds like the sort of thing that can happen with a floating (trem) bridge. When note bending, the other strings de-tune. I presume you have a conventional TOM bridge & tailstop?

 

 

So it seems that when tuning one of the heavier E & A stings, the other is compensating for the change in tension.

That means something else is moving. Check carefully to ensure neither the bridge nor the nut is moving when you tune. They should be rock solid, with no forward/back nor up/down motion.

 

If you can confirm that, then the only other movement can be in the neck itself (or joint to body).

 

That is an unpleasant prospect, because the neck should be able to cope with the tension of regular strings in concert tuning easily. If it cant, then somethings is up with the neck. I had this happen to a guitar of mine. There was a hairline crack at the bottom of the neck a couple of inches from the headstock/volute. It could only just be seen when applying extra pressure to the neck (meaning gently pulling the headstock forwards).

 

To do this, look at the back of the neck while holding the body firmly and push the neck away from you. It should be gentle but firm pressure. You are looking for a tiny fissure, probably curved and likely closer the the headstock.

 

Good luck

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These are my tuners: Gotoh Locking 510 Delta Series Tuning Keys, Antique Chrome, 3x3, with hardware, 21:1

 

https://www.allparts...ers_p_3806.html

Ok the nut is installed the correct direction. The fret on the nut, is on the fretboard side as if it is an actual fret at the nut, which explains the name, zero fret nut, and the height is just enough to clear all the frets so there is no buzzing when the open note is played with a hard pluck. Ill try to measure the distance but i only have a standard ruler not any special tools for fine measuring.

 

 

There is nothing wrong with the neck. I am certain of that, but Ill try your suggested test. (ill edit this with result, it is still before sunrise right now, i will need more light). The guitar has only ever gone from the case to a workbench to the case to my lap, i sit down to play, with a strap still, and back to the case. and the case has only been from my bedroom floor to the car to the luthiers' workbench and back without falling ever. There cannot possibly be a crack in the neck unless it came from gibson or the store that way and i had it inspected before my 45 day return policy at gc was up to be sure there was no such problem. (not that it couldnt have been overlooked but it is unlikely.)

 

Also this problem is worse after changing strings. but i changed them 2 weeks ago and havent gotten it to tune yet.

 

If by "de-tuning" you mean going sharp...

 

I will tune say the A string, (after the D, G, B, and high E are tuned), then, with the A sting at pitch, I will mess around using only the 5 strings, playing the A chord, a D chord, some riffs, a minor... for a few minutes, stretch the string a bit and recheck the tuning, everything cool...

 

Then I go to the low E, tune it to pitch or a bit flat... ok same thing only to discover this time the my a string has gone sharp, almost to the next note. so i tune it flat to wind up to the pitch, check it do same thing, then my low E is sharp again almost to the next note. So i retune the low E, and A is again sharp back and forth all day...impossible, well super difficult, to finally find the balance where all the strings are tuned to pitch then guess what....the g string is always a bit off tune with the other strings when tuned at 440, this seems true on all guitars. So using harmonics at 5th at 7th i find a bit of oscillation, (spelling), between a pair somewhere and the whole process repeats omg. Im so frustrated.

 

I THANK this thread sincerely because i really think the nut may be exactly what i need. Thank you for asking me about my situation, but i am feeling a bit like I hijacked the thread and wonder if i shouldnt have brought it to a new thread?

Edited by Roach
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I have a 2015 SG Standard, this guitar is FAN-TAS-TIC ! The inlays are not plastic, they are made with real Mother of pearl .

 

Very resonant, very good finish, all 2015 Gibson I played are very good instruments.

 

The adjustable nut is a very good idea but I don' t like the material. I installed a Graph Tech TUSQ XL adjustable nut, nice vintage look and great sustain, this great nut is PnP

 

 

 

Where did you find this Revolution?

(sry if i jacked your thread, unintentional m8)

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These are my tuners: Gotoh Locking 510 Delta Series Tuning Keys, Antique Chrome, 3x3, with hardware, 21:1

 

https://www.allparts...ers_p_3806.html

 

 

There cannot possibly be a crack in the neck unless it came from gibson or the store that way and i had it inspected before my 45 day return policy at gc was up to be sure there was no such problem. (not that it couldnt have been overlooked but it is unlikely.)

 

Also this problem is worse after changing strings. but i changed them 2 weeks ago and havent gotten it to tune yet.

 

If by "de-tuning" you mean going sharp...

 

I will tune say the A string, (after the D, G, B, and high E are tuned), then, with the A sting at pitch, I will mess around using only the 5 strings, playing the A chord, a D chord, some riffs, a minor... for a few minutes, stretch the string a bit and recheck the tuning, everything cool...

 

Then I go to the low E, tune it to pitch or a bit flat... ok same thing only to discover this time the my a string has gone sharp, almost to the next note. so i tune it flat to wind up to the pitch, check it do same thing, then my low E is sharp again almost to the next note. So i retune the low E, and A is again sharp back and forth all day...impossible, well super difficult, to finally find the balance where all the strings are tuned to pitch then guess what....the g string is always a bit off tune with the other strings when tuned at 440, this seems true on all guitars. So using harmonics at 5th at 7th i find a bit of oscillation, (spelling), between a pair somewhere and the whole process repeats omg. Im so frustrated.

 

I THANK this thread sincerely because i really think the nut may be exactly what i need. Thank you for asking me about my situation, but i am feeling a bit like I hijacked the thread and wonder if i shouldnt have brought it to a new thread?

 

By de-tuning, I mean going flat.

 

Forgive me if this sounds patronising but I am only trying to get this straight in my head. I assume you are tuning the strings upward? IOW, tuning to pitch having begun from a lower note?

 

So having tuned eBGDA upward to pitch, you then tune the low E upward to pitch. At this point you find the A has raised in pitch & become sharp?

 

If I have described that correctly, then I have no idea what is going on. If the neck is not holding tension (cracked) then tuning a string upward would make another string go flat. What you seem to be describing is that raising your low E in pitch, also raises your A string in pitch.

 

Any chance of a picture of the headstock & tuners? Though the best thing of all would be a video of the A & E tuning. I'm sure that would get plenty of interest here because its so bizarre a problem.

 

 

 

 

PS. Did the Gotoh 510s come fitted from the factory, or have they replaced something else?

 

 

BTW this thread is a repeat of one already posted before. A pretty much exact (even the same pictures) was posted earlier this year. Why? I can only think of one reason. For that reason I would not worry about it, but if you want to begin a new one, just post a link back to this one.

Edited by merciful-evans
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