Revolution Six Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 I have a 2015 SG Standard, this guitar is FAN-TAS-TIC ! The inlays are not plastic, they are made with real Mother of pearl . Very resonant, very good finish, all 2015 Gibson I played are very good instruments. The adjustable nut is a very good idea but I don' t like the material. I installed a Graph Tech TUSQ XL adjustable nut, nice vintage look and great sustain, this great nut is PnP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonard McCoy Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 I don't see the need for an adjustable plastic nut... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farnsbarns Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Cool nut. I hate to disappoint but I'm pretty sure your inlays are the usual cellulose nitrate. Upon searching I see them descibed as just that, and pearl, and mother of pearl and abalone. The guys who write the specs appear to guess at such things. I see all sorts of errors, ommisions and contradictions. I hope they are MOP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayinLA Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Good upgrade? I've gone to all bone. But still I have to re-lube when I change strings, or I'll get some binding with the 3rd and 4th strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 This again? I'm glad you like your new nut. However, I'll say what I said last time this picture was posted. The manufacturer should be compelled to prove the claims for 'increased harmonic content' and 'tuning stability'. Only open strings will sound any different, and tuning stability is determined by the tuners. In the case of the Gibson Zero Fret nut there has been no problems with binding in the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolution Six Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Yeah, I like this nut, It give a cool standard look to 2015, better than the metal one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaicho8888 Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 It gives it a more traditional old school look... I don't know any difference on the tone of the six open strings. Logically, zero metal fret would sound like the rest of the metal frets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolution Six Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 @Farnsbarns : On 2015 Gibson the inlays are made with real MOP, not plastic. Mother of Pearl Inlays: Better appearance and value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
american cheez Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 tuning stability is determined by the tuners. except, it's not, at least...not the way your post implies. 99% of the time stability issues are from the string sticking in the nut slot. even cheap die-cast tuners don't slip. the reason a roller nut combined with locking tuners creates stability is because 1) no binding at the nut 2) less winds on the post so no, tuning stability is not determined by the tuners as much as the nut itself. the tuner's effect on tuning stability is only through required amount of winds on the post. as the winds on a conventional tuning post tighten/relax from sticking in the nut you get issues. locking tuners, having no winds at all (if used properly) do not exhibit this tendency. if you were to forgo the roller nut and not use the locking mechanism, they would function the same as any other tuner, and it would be the nut which creates the instability, as well as the string conforming to the shape of the post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megafrog Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 I think that the Gibson titanium replacement nuts are very good. I don’t see any reason to go the tusk route when the titanium nut is free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolution Six Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 TUSQ nut gives it a more traditional old school look... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 except, it's not, at least...not the way your post implies. 99% of the time stability issues are from the string sticking in the nut slot. even cheap die-cast tuners don't slip. the reason a roller nut combined with locking tuners creates stability is because 1) no binding at the nut 2) less winds on the post so no, tuning stability is not determined by the tuners as much as the nut itself. the tuner's effect on tuning stability is only through required amount of winds on the post. as the winds on a conventional tuning post tighten/relax from sticking in the nut you get issues. locking tuners, having no winds at all (if used properly) do not exhibit this tendency. if you were to forgo the roller nut and not use the locking mechanism, they would function the same as any other tuner, and it would be the nut which creates the instability, as well as the string conforming to the shape of the post. As I stated in my post above: In the case of the Gibson Zero Fret nut there has been no problems with binding in the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
american cheez Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 As I stated in my post above: yes, you did say that the zero nut did not bind. however, you also said that tuners were responsible for stability. that was the part i quoted because it was that concept that i felt needed a correction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 yes, you did say that the zero nut did not bind. however, you also said that tuners were responsible for stability. that was the part i quoted because it was that concept that i felt needed a correction. Well I welcome your input and opinion AC, but I still think I'm right about that also. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roach Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 im still having massive tuning problems with the zero fret titanium nut replacement for my 2015 LP Studio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolution Six Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 Does the GForce work perfectly ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roach Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Does the GForce work perfectly ? mine has no gforce... if you were asking me Does this Graph Tech TUSQ XL adjustable nut fit in the zero fret nut slot that is already on the guitars, or do you have to remove that as if replacing the entire thing? If it replaces the metal one from gibson, what size fits a 15 lp studio, (with no gforce). https://gyazo.com/fa6f5cabd4cf36906a0f6db4266e1aa4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolution Six Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Brass, titanium, Tusq: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 im still having massive tuning problems with the zero fret titanium nut replacement for my 2015 LP Studio. What is going wrong? What string gauges are you using? What tuners? Are you making enough winds about the posts? Are the new strings stretched sufficiently? Have you set the zero fret nut height higher than regular nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roach Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 What is going wrong? What string gauges are you using? What tuners? Are you making enough winds about the posts? Are the new strings stretched sufficiently? Have you set the zero fret nut height higher than regular nut? i had mentioned my problem before and i cant find the thread or post cause its too old...i use 10-42 daddario XL. i have the titanum replacement for the original brass one i have no gforce but i have had 21:1 ratio gotoh tuners professionally installed by luthier who has worked on my titanum nut and this problem but did not solve it. i am using daddario friction remover lube on nut and bridge, THE PROBLEM IS the low e and the a strings. Ill tune either one to pitch or just a bit flat and then the other one goes sharp almost another semitone. so ill tune down then up to the note or just flat and the other string goes way sharp...it is nearly impossible to tune it and i am on the verge of giving up entirely on playing because i cannot train my ear or voice when my reference cant even be in tune and im tired of sounding like crap with a real gibson usa les paul just because i cannot tune it or keep it in tune and yes i stretch the strings when installing them. how many winds am i supposed to make? this last time i have 3 winds on E and 4 on the A OR just a half wind shy of that... ill check the height but i know its higher just maybe in 64ths at the bridge end of the fretboard and too much lower it would probably buzz at first frets the action only answer i ever get is..."it shouldnt do that... SO im seriously considering this nut from this thread cause my 2000 LP which has a bone nut has over time made its own grooves which are angled exactly like this one here so the design is perfect... in theory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I find the number of winds usually don't matter. My low E string on my V currently has, like, half a wind, and it stays in tune just as well as when it has two winds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 THE PROBLEM IS the low e and the a strings. Ill tune either one to pitch or just a bit flat and then the other one goes sharp almost another semitone. so ill tune down then up to the note or just flat and the other string goes way sharp...it is nearly impossible to tune it and i am on the verge of giving up entirely on playing because i cannot train my ear or voice when my reference cant even be in tune and im tired of sounding like crap with a real gibson usa les paul just because i cannot tune it or keep it in tune and yes i stretch the strings when installing them. how many winds am i supposed to make? this last time i have 3 winds on E and 4 on the A OR just a half wind shy of that... ill check the height but i know its higher just maybe in 64ths at the bridge end of the fretboard and too much lower it would probably buzz at first frets the action only answer i ever get is..."it shouldnt do that... SO im seriously considering this nut from this thread cause my 2000 LP which has a bone nut has over time made its own grooves which are angled exactly like this one here so the design is perfect... in theory... Since you are using regular (as Gibson would supply) strings there should be no binding in the titanium nut. Though to be sure, check that the nut is installed the correct way round. Ok. The strings are stretched, so there should be no de-tuning going on there. You didnt say whether the nut height was ok. Have you set the zero fret nut height higher than regular nut? though the problem you describe should not be affected by that. Three string winds on the posts is fine for the low E & A strings. This sounds like the sort of thing that can happen with a floating (trem) bridge. When note bending, the other strings de-tune. I presume you have a conventional TOM bridge & tailstop? So it seems that when tuning one of the heavier E & A stings, the other is compensating for the change in tension. That means something else is moving. Check carefully to ensure neither the bridge nor the nut is moving when you tune. They should be rock solid, with no forward/back nor up/down motion. If you can confirm that, then the only other movement can be in the neck itself (or joint to body). That is an unpleasant prospect, because the neck should be able to cope with the tension of regular strings in concert tuning easily. If it cant, then somethings is up with the neck. I had this happen to a guitar of mine. There was a hairline crack at the bottom of the neck a couple of inches from the headstock/volute. It could only just be seen when applying extra pressure to the neck (meaning gently pulling the headstock forwards). To do this, look at the back of the neck while holding the body firmly and push the neck away from you. It should be gentle but firm pressure. You are looking for a tiny fissure, probably curved and likely closer the the headstock. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roach Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 These are my tuners: Gotoh Locking 510 Delta Series Tuning Keys, Antique Chrome, 3x3, with hardware, 21:1 https://www.allparts...ers_p_3806.html Ok the nut is installed the correct direction. The fret on the nut, is on the fretboard side as if it is an actual fret at the nut, which explains the name, zero fret nut, and the height is just enough to clear all the frets so there is no buzzing when the open note is played with a hard pluck. Ill try to measure the distance but i only have a standard ruler not any special tools for fine measuring. There is nothing wrong with the neck. I am certain of that, but Ill try your suggested test. (ill edit this with result, it is still before sunrise right now, i will need more light). The guitar has only ever gone from the case to a workbench to the case to my lap, i sit down to play, with a strap still, and back to the case. and the case has only been from my bedroom floor to the car to the luthiers' workbench and back without falling ever. There cannot possibly be a crack in the neck unless it came from gibson or the store that way and i had it inspected before my 45 day return policy at gc was up to be sure there was no such problem. (not that it couldnt have been overlooked but it is unlikely.) Also this problem is worse after changing strings. but i changed them 2 weeks ago and havent gotten it to tune yet. If by "de-tuning" you mean going sharp... I will tune say the A string, (after the D, G, B, and high E are tuned), then, with the A sting at pitch, I will mess around using only the 5 strings, playing the A chord, a D chord, some riffs, a minor... for a few minutes, stretch the string a bit and recheck the tuning, everything cool... Then I go to the low E, tune it to pitch or a bit flat... ok same thing only to discover this time the my a string has gone sharp, almost to the next note. so i tune it flat to wind up to the pitch, check it do same thing, then my low E is sharp again almost to the next note. So i retune the low E, and A is again sharp back and forth all day...impossible, well super difficult, to finally find the balance where all the strings are tuned to pitch then guess what....the g string is always a bit off tune with the other strings when tuned at 440, this seems true on all guitars. So using harmonics at 5th at 7th i find a bit of oscillation, (spelling), between a pair somewhere and the whole process repeats omg. Im so frustrated. I THANK this thread sincerely because i really think the nut may be exactly what i need. Thank you for asking me about my situation, but i am feeling a bit like I hijacked the thread and wonder if i shouldnt have brought it to a new thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roach Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I have a 2015 SG Standard, this guitar is FAN-TAS-TIC ! The inlays are not plastic, they are made with real Mother of pearl . Very resonant, very good finish, all 2015 Gibson I played are very good instruments. The adjustable nut is a very good idea but I don' t like the material. I installed a Graph Tech TUSQ XL adjustable nut, nice vintage look and great sustain, this great nut is PnP Where did you find this Revolution? (sry if i jacked your thread, unintentional m8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 These are my tuners: Gotoh Locking 510 Delta Series Tuning Keys, Antique Chrome, 3x3, with hardware, 21:1 https://www.allparts...ers_p_3806.html There cannot possibly be a crack in the neck unless it came from gibson or the store that way and i had it inspected before my 45 day return policy at gc was up to be sure there was no such problem. (not that it couldnt have been overlooked but it is unlikely.) Also this problem is worse after changing strings. but i changed them 2 weeks ago and havent gotten it to tune yet. If by "de-tuning" you mean going sharp... I will tune say the A string, (after the D, G, B, and high E are tuned), then, with the A sting at pitch, I will mess around using only the 5 strings, playing the A chord, a D chord, some riffs, a minor... for a few minutes, stretch the string a bit and recheck the tuning, everything cool... Then I go to the low E, tune it to pitch or a bit flat... ok same thing only to discover this time the my a string has gone sharp, almost to the next note. so i tune it flat to wind up to the pitch, check it do same thing, then my low E is sharp again almost to the next note. So i retune the low E, and A is again sharp back and forth all day...impossible, well super difficult, to finally find the balance where all the strings are tuned to pitch then guess what....the g string is always a bit off tune with the other strings when tuned at 440, this seems true on all guitars. So using harmonics at 5th at 7th i find a bit of oscillation, (spelling), between a pair somewhere and the whole process repeats omg. Im so frustrated. I THANK this thread sincerely because i really think the nut may be exactly what i need. Thank you for asking me about my situation, but i am feeling a bit like I hijacked the thread and wonder if i shouldnt have brought it to a new thread? By de-tuning, I mean going flat. Forgive me if this sounds patronising but I am only trying to get this straight in my head. I assume you are tuning the strings upward? IOW, tuning to pitch having begun from a lower note? So having tuned eBGDA upward to pitch, you then tune the low E upward to pitch. At this point you find the A has raised in pitch & become sharp? If I have described that correctly, then I have no idea what is going on. If the neck is not holding tension (cracked) then tuning a string upward would make another string go flat. What you seem to be describing is that raising your low E in pitch, also raises your A string in pitch. Any chance of a picture of the headstock & tuners? Though the best thing of all would be a video of the A & E tuning. I'm sure that would get plenty of interest here because its so bizarre a problem. PS. Did the Gotoh 510s come fitted from the factory, or have they replaced something else? BTW this thread is a repeat of one already posted before. A pretty much exact (even the same pictures) was posted earlier this year. Why? I can only think of one reason. For that reason I would not worry about it, but if you want to begin a new one, just post a link back to this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.