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don't use elmers for godsake.

Use franklin titebond.


I'm sorry about your guitar, but that was a lucky break!

Above the truss rod, didn't interfere with the neck/board.

A large clean break, comparitively, and it wont hurt a thing even if you didn't line the pieces up perfectly.

Not that there's any reason you shouldn't or couldn't.


Fixable for strength. the titebond will be stronger than the wood was.


I'd make the headstock black all the way around. it'll be different, but it will be fine!


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Buy some Elmer's and a bunch of clamps...

yeah, actually bro, you got lucky!!! thats a nice break, with lots of gluing surface, and you probably won't hafta rebuild a thing about it...





you have it in a parked car once and you'll be done fer with elmers...




use animal hide glue.


or take it to someone (like me) who knows how to use hide glue and fix simple snaps like this...



geez, your cryin over this??? you should see this ES-335 I'm currently building cauls for.... HA!

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Oh, Oh, not good.

I know you got a lot of suggestions but my vote would be to have the whole headstock replaced. Do you know a good Luthier that could do it? It won't be cheap but it will be done right and you shouldn't be able to see where it was repaired . Good Luck with whatever you choose.



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Oh ya ,Ouch !!!!

But any way nice clean break,easy fix ,either some titebond,or E-pox if it has been broke before

and by lookin at the pictures you have posted it might of had a small crack in the wood

the stain is in ,and not just coating the top .So using either will work make sure you read

some of the glues want you to dampen the surface first before gluing and clamping .

Really good clean break .ya you can do it ,just remove the tuners so there out of the way

a couple good padded clamps and all will be good ,,just take a damp cloth for wiping up the excess glue

after it`s done bleeding out wipe with a clean rag again.after 24 hours unclamp let dry to two days

then clean the joint again smooth it a little bit ,all is good ,then spray with clear laquer.thin coats

buff out ,,i think you get it ...

i`ve got four here lookin the same way ,must be the full moon.

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listen to what i say aready


a) no other glue but animal hide, please, you'll regret not using it.



#-o don't moisten the neck joint... thats silly... wood will take on the moisture, and if you use one of those glues it'll be trapped, now you have a neck joint thats apt to a new position due to humidity and heat... and will eventually creep right apart...


c) padded clamps won't do, you have to build full flat cauls.. because you have a flat break like that... you need to distribute clamping pressure... if you don't your distorte your clamping area, and certain areas won't be glued and clamped as good as you can... like overtightening wheel nuts on your aluminum (and to a less extent) steel rims...


d) as long as you haven't flaked the laquer, you won't need to add more... just rub over the exsisting laquer and then buff the line out..., well, scrape flush them continue buffing... i wouldn't suggest any kind of spray laquer if you need to drop fill either... thats just nuts, and cheap....


attention to detail here people... these are guitars, not grade 5 art projects...


epoxy glues really do have no place on a guitar... some people might use them for binding... they do however have a place on the clamping end of your cauls... and to make other tools... the guitar needs to breathe though, you gotta use materials for repair that won't hinder this ability...

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thanks for all the advice. i was in a rush to get to work so i couldn't explain everything, but basically i foolishly had it leaned up in a corner for a little while, and my cat knocked it over while i was out of the room.


and yes, it was cracked and repaired before i owned it .i got it at a steep discount. just goes to show, you can't always have your bargain goggles on when looking for a new guitar.


anyways, it is a clean break and behind the truss rod and the nut, so as long as it doesn't give me any tuning problems it shouldn't affect the sound at all. luckily i just got that double-cut LP yesterday, so that kind of eases the pain :)


any other advice is welcome, and for the record i could honestly care less what the finish looks like, as long as the thing works.

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