Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

how do you clean the selector switch on an LP?


tvyelwhiteflag

Recommended Posts

I have an LP Classic with a selector switch that's starting to get a little wonky. The thing won't select the bridge pup sometimes without playing around with it. I know I can put a switchcraft or other brand in there, and it would be nice to know what the replacement is, but I also understand that you can take it out and clean the contacts somehow and it will work again. Anyone know the procedure for this, I'd like to avoid having to replace it right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This may not be the official way, but it makes sense to me...

 

Remove the switch and disassemble (do whatever you need to do to remember how to put it back together, but it's not tricky).

Clean with alcohol

Scour the contacts with a nail file or something similar

Re-assemble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need to put more bend in the two pieces that make contact.. if you look at the switch you'll see two strips that come down to the contact points.. they lose tension, or don't have enough to start with..

that's the usual epi switch problem..

 

you take a needle nose pliers and bend those two strips so that they put more pressure on the contact points.. just a tick. go by feel and looking..

it's not hard, and you can only screw it up if you go in there and bend like you're pulling a nail out or something.. just takes a bit.

you don't even have to unsolder it.. just lift it out and do it.

 

did that to my lp and the switch has been fine ever since.

 

secondary problem is the contact points are dirty.. run a piece of fine sandpaper or emery paper between the contact points..

on each side.. make sure you do it twice on each side so that you get all the points of contact..

that a tightening the strips does the job just fine.

 

my sheri went about ten years after I did this, and my epi is quiet as can be.

 

TWANG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yah.. look. usually it's not dirty contact points though.. it's lack of tension with epi switches.

I've had like five different epi models in the shop and that's been the deal with all of them.

and for me, I find the emery paper does it.. I do the same thing to adaptors.. like going from stereo rca to stereo

1/4".. rough 'em out and the contact stays.

and yep, I even do it on gold ones because when they can't be adjusted for increased pressure the roughed finish

will do the job.

I also tend to think gold contact points is a crock anyway.. I can't hear anything, and the stuff is so thin it wears off to regular metal anyway.

 

tension on the strips, I'd bet.

 

TWANG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good advice, but I wouldn't use sandpaper, especially if they are gold plated contacts, which is very thin to start with. Sanding creates tiny scratches on the contacts that can hold dirt and lessen the contact area. You want to keep them nice and shiny for good contact. Use contact clean and some rough paper or cardboard, such as a matchbook cover sprayed with contact cleaner. Insert a strip between the contacts and slide it back and forth with the switch in position on that side to provide some extra tension. Then, the important part, spray the contacts with silicone spray to coat them and prevent further oxidation.

 

Or, you can just spray and then work the switch back and forth until the self wiping action cleans them and the pickups start working again. I also like bending the outer contacts to increase the contact force.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your best bet for cleaning contacts is to use a good contact cleaner (de-oxit or something) and something like a good bond business card. Drag it through with pressure on the contacts after spraying. Been doing that for years on leaf switches in jukeboxes. Your contact points on a switch are larger and more forgiving so you can probably get away with other methods, but that is what I would do to maintain integrity of the contact points. Cleaning them of course will only help a bit or be temporary if the tensionng is off.....

 

An easier method is just to spray into the switch and toggle it back and forth a bit. Again - if it is just that the contacts are dirty that may fix it. If the tensioning has gone AWOL, then it will not not help or be temporary.

 

I know if I were to do it on a guitar that I was going to keep that is a pita to get at and put back, I'd just buy a new good quality one for the price and be done with it. When working on old jukes, the switches are not readily available, so maintenance is the best bet for me.](*,)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...