62burst

'Was hearing more of You're a Big Girl Now from Blood on the _ (1975) at :32. Does sound good, and it's aged well. Did other ADJ bridges have that channel cut north of the saddle for super low action?

Good enough

Are you sure? 'Just tried on the mobile device- the "create an account" box pops up, but a down arrow on upper right allows it to be minimized, and for the article to be read.

All of the above (cloth tape supports/lacquer crazing) only endears it to old Gibson fans even more. Just be sure to take it to someone experienced in vintage Gibsons. Someone who wants to maintain originality.

So you're thinking of learning guitar on a 1946 (-ish) LG-2? It looks like one, judging by the burst, the script logo, and lack of f.o.n. (factory order number) on the neck block inside the guitar. If so, don't just take it to any guitar mechanic- best seek out a vintage Gibson luth to check it out. Nice to learn on a guitar that's been in the family. Congrats, and show a few more pics, if you can.

DAVID ! ! ! You, you. . . _____ . . . Don't get a splinter on that guitar (KG-32?). (Probably should've held on to mine) ps- seems the black buttons, which are pretty cool (I wonder if they're Bakelite?) hold up much better over the years.

. . . or . . . before you put anything on it that could react with any touch up attempts, and as it sounds like you're in the Chicago area, 'thought I'd pass along a shop that has done some amazing finish work. A few years back, an old J-35, rare opaque finish, with some of the most beautiful lacquer crazing showed up at a very attractive price on eBay. The only problem was it's nasty bridge work that seemingly defaced an otherwise beautiful old Gibson. It sat on eBay until one courageous soul took a chance and bought it. There was much discussion on the Martin forum as to how to proceed. The first post on p.5 of the thread mentions the shop, and specifically, the person who did the work:https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/theunofficialmartinguitarforum/rare-1942-opaque-j35-on-ebay-t114234-s80.html. Page 2 of the same thread has the "before" photos in clickable thumbnails. Before: After: Yes, dings and scratches are going to happen. But considering the newness of the guitar, it's value, and how much you like it, it might be nice to know you have options. Even Dan Erlewine of StewMac, or any spot repair touchup person could float in increasingly more diluted coats of lacquer, and buff it out to a fairly passable repair- nitro is one of the most repairable finishes. Nice guitar, and if your YouTube demo of the Retros (nice playing, by the way) can give a tone such as that, I'll have to give them a try.

I guess I had that coming. It would be a good project, but they’re probably guitars out there that would be a better use of the time and energy, but if you were out to save it from being a Parts o’caster, it’s probably a little too late for that, as that is probably why the tuners, tail piece, and firestripe guard are already missing. Lol.. the “Grandpa’s guitar” story- a classic. That’s probably the best part of what’s left of that guitar .

surely, and once again, the forum is most likely thanked by those who've stopped by on their way to the auction block: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1932-Gibson-L50-L30-L4-Archtop-1933-1935-The-Gibson-Husk-Project-Guitar/293196801771?hash=item4443e426eb:g:k8kAAOSw8sZdXc-c

"Your bottom screw hole is covered by your massive nut" What? It's possible that the nut was so large that the bottom of the truss rod cover would no longer fit- there, in the excavation for the nut that looks like the original screw hole. . . the angle of the photo is slightly above being straight out from the headstock, as evidenced by the vanishing point of the side of the nut for the lower strings. And the screw holes aren't always perfectly centered. Hey Boyd- how 'bout those "eyes" around the E and B tuners? Maybe clip the string ends a little sooner, or maybe start a new headstock design fad.

Ha ha- now you will have a J-45 with the Rotomatic tuners. and that can always be changed. But you also have a real dilemma: the 2nd guitar has a more engaging burst, maybe more over to the red side of things, and a lighter fretboard, but it also has some funky finish sinking into the top around the fretboard extension- I have a similar thing going on with my 12 fret J-45, also with the Sunset burst, and rather than messing with a return, just chalked it up to Gibson using thinner finishes these days, even though it might also have something to due with nitro finishes vs production schedules. . . but ultimately I decided not to worry about it. Jumping between :20 sec and 1:06 s is a good a/b sample, and to these ears, no.2 sounded livelier, but maybe it's just a setup/string height thing, or no. 1 has been getting lots of play in the shop, and now the strings are a bit played. Flip a coin if you have to- you really can't go wrong with either one. And once decided, don't look back.

Right to the point, Jinder. Both you and Dave(F) have been down that road, and the return for repair is a pain and shipping is always a risk, especially in the heat of summer. My guitar's issues were merely cosmetic, and weighing all of the above, ended up just letting it ride. OP is in Canada? Lucky that the dealer wants to give him those options. Considering all of the legal loopholes Gibson has (https://www.gibson.com/Support/Warranty/USA), and considering ", **Customers who purchased product outside the U.S should contact their local distributor for the handling and resolution of all warranty issues as the above-described Gibson Gold Warranty is not applicable", option 2 seems a safe way to go.

are you sure you’re not already retired?

The one J-45 to have, when you're having more than one. A cherry burst that strong, and one with an adjustable saddle at that, can be an acquired taste, but Michael Lemmo's playing fattens the mids nicely with those thick chords (the required chatter can be skipped by going right to 4:20). Thanks for passing that along, Holiday.

Yeah, that roughness at the fretboard extension is nothing. Nothing. I'd be more interested in what looks to be some high action in photo 9. Might be something that could easily be adjusted. Make sure it's comfortable to play. Nice tall saddle, too. Thin pickguard a plus. Like the tuners. Nice demure burst. Photo 5 seems to show a nice chunky neck profile, which would most likely be an upgrade from the slim taper neck on the 2019.

I think keeping it in the case makes the strings last longer, because whatever the fingers leave behind attracts and allows dust to accumulate, and oxidation to increase . Personally, there are a couple of guitars that stay out around here. . and I kinda like the sound of older strings on certain guitars/ styles of music- not quite Nick Drake, more along the lines of early Dylan. QM- if you want a surprise, try wiping those strings down with a little naphtha … They’ll be zingy again. Just be sure to wear ear plugs- it’s pretty squeaky.

C’mon (Roy)^2- you know elixirs, the nano‘s in particular, would be good for a regular- use guitar‘s longevity of strings, but for a guitar that has infrequent use, just put your favorite set of strings on it, and keep it in the case- they should sound pretty good for a long time. Also, by using the long-lived elixirs, you lessen the amount of times that the bridge plate gets galled every time you bring a new set of strings up tension.

Nice. Thanks for sharing that. 'Hope the documentary has a couple more chords, though.

I think you're right. The conversion bushings might've been used when going from the Rotos to 3 on a plates. Was going to go with these StewMac Golden Age jobs (shown below with some rotomatics, two of which probably weigh more than the whole 3 on a plate) for the old maple J-45, but ended up getting a salvaged pair of original tuners.

Almost forgot- not only is there a lot of metal hanging on the back of those tuners, but there’s a lot of metal going through the headstock, too. So you’ll most likely need the 3/8” conversion bushings, as well: https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Tuning_Machines/Tuner_Parts/3_8_Conversion_Tuner_Bushing.html

Yes, and always good to put a little masking tape around the 1/16" drill bit just shy of the length of the body of the screw to use as a depth gauge.

I believe it is Buc here on the forum who knows the model number of Grover tuners to use, possibly these: https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Tuning_Machines/Solid_Peghead_Guitar_Tuning_Machines/Grover_Vintage_135_Series_3and3_Tuners.html Just bear in mind- don’t the Grover Rotomatics ( if that’s what you have) that you’re looking to replace have a only a single screw on the lower inside? Hopefully this would be covered by the base plate of the 135 tuners.. Worked for me. Or- were those tuners Buc was talking about Gotoh tuners?

I think Dave ain't afraid of no guitar. Certainly not afraid of what top cracks along the fretboard extension through the rosette do to resale value. These are arched back guitars? I suppose if one was absolutely curious about this model, and one had the set up knowledge (as you do), then at this price, knowledge of the array of Gibson acoustics ever offered could only be increased. . . . and who ships a guitar in just a case?

Weren't you supposed to be billed on the marquee above Puppet Show?