Help. Saddle question!

[SkyRider]

Hi,

 

Please see pic below. I bought couple 2016 J-45's recently and one of them have this gap in the saddle slot.

 

My understanding is that Tusq saddle that comes in modern Gibsons are mass produced, right? So will ordering another be any different than my current one in terms of its thickness? I don't like gaps and want my saddle full. I prefer the tone of saddle so getting a custom bone saddle won't help.

 

Thanks!

 

[QuestionMark]

That looks like a standard intonated/compensated saddle to me from the photo. One segment of the saddle is intentionally set back to achieve accurate intonation of the guitar. Though a straight saddle will generally work fine, an intonated/compensated saddle where one segment is slightly set back will give a guitar more accurate intonation. Its a keeper in my opinion...I wouldn't change it. I have them on some of my guitars and some I do not. Generally, though an intonated saddle is one to keep on the guitar for that extra fine tuned intonation.

 

Unless I am missing something in the photo.

 

You might want to do an internet search on acoustic guitar intonated saddles to learn more about them. I'm sure others will also weigh in...

 

QM aka Jazzman Jeff

[Buc McMaster]

There is a gap on the back side of the saddle.......kind of unusual, I'd say. Another tusq saddle from Gibson will likely fit the same since they are, as you say, mass produced and I'd also think it highly unlikely you could find anyone making one-off, custom saddles of this material. If you're stuck on tusq as a saddle material I reckon you're stuck with the one you have. A "surgical" fix could be done by a luthier, filling the saddle slot and recutting it to fit the saddle better.......expensive and silly, really. A bone saddle could easily be had and made to fit as tightly as you like.

 

All that said, if you're happy with the tone of the instrument let the small gap slide..........play it!

[duluthdan]

Perhaps a thin Rosewood shim could fill that gap? http://www.guitarsaddles.com/SaddleShim.asp

[mountainpicker]

Tusq saddle blanks (slabs) are made and can be had in different thicknesses:

 

http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands/tusq/tusq-acoustic-saddles

[QuestionMark]

Tusq saddle blanks (slabs) are made and can be had in different thicknesses:

 

http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands/tusq/tusq-acoustic-saddles

 

I see the gap now. My opinion is its nothing at all to worry about. If the gap had a malfunctioning it would cause the saddle to inappropriately lean back towards the bridge pins, causing the strings to not properly sit on the saddle. In the photo it appears the saddle is sitting perfectly upright in the saddle. That would lead me to believe that the saddle is actually sitting snug in the depth of bridge and that the small gap is only by the top opening from a minor cosmetic perspective. If, however, you find the saddle is wobbly with or without the strings having tension, then a new saddle that fits snug would be in order. (Although I believe at least one of my guitars in my collection might have a slightly wobbly saddle when the strings have no tension, but holds firmly in place with string tension...causing no problem in the sound transfer from the strings to the top or body of the guitar. If it was loose with tension, though...I would have been promptly replaced it.)

 

Hope this helps.

 

QM aka Jazzman Jeff

[bassetman]

Just call Bob Colosi and have him leave it a bit thick ....sand it to perfect when you get it.

 

http://www.guitarsaddles.com/pricing.asp

[Dave F]

I have some very thin rosewood shim (.015")

Make a shim for it. You could glue it to the saddle and sand it down if needed. PM me if you want a piece.

[Cougar]

...I'd also think it highly unlikely you could find anyone making one-off, custom saddles of this material. If you're stuck on tusq as a saddle material ....

 

I don't know why a luthier or good tech couldn't cut you a new saddle made out of a blank of your preferred tusq. He/she would make sure it fit in the slot perfectly and also make sure it retained the proper intonation. Probably cost around 50 bucks (which may include checking/adjusting the setup). That gap is a little troubling because it might be putting extra lateral forces on the bridge, causing it to crack or break.

[Hogeye]

No one is addressing the problem. First---The saddle cavity is cut on a CNC machine so there is no variation there. Next the actual saddle is also mass produced so no variation there. The problem? The bridge has dried out and shrunk leaving the gap you see.

 

The very first thing that should be done is to hydrate the bridge and most likely the fret board. This will stop the gap from getting larger but I doubt that it will close the gap. If you stop the shrinkage and like the sound of the guitar then play it. If you just can't live with the gap order a blank and fit it by hand.

 

Lesson to be learned? Oil the fret board and the bridge every time you change strings. It just takes a couple of minutes.

[Cougar]

The very first thing that should be done is to hydrate the bridge and most likely the fret board.

 

Ah, good point, Hogeye!

[Buc McMaster]

The bridge has dried out and shrunk leaving the gap you see.

 

Possible, but it's a 2016 model, only a few months old. Doesn't seem to me that the guitar is old enough to have that much shrinkage of the bridge without there being other serious humidification problems elsewhere. That appears to be at least 1/64" gap there, maybe more......such shrinkage due to lack of humidity would not be restricted to the saddle slot. I'd expect to see the entire bridge moving from it's glue footing if that were the case......and the bridge pins would be sloppy in the holes and no longer fit properly. The bridge may indeed need a little oil but I don't believe this is a humidity problem.

 

I disagree..........being crabby again, I suppose.

[62burst]

As the OP is aware, most folk who want to make the guitar give it's best will say that the saddle should sit perfectly flat against the bottom of the saddle slot, and to transfer maximum energy, it should be snug against it's sides (i.e, it shouldn't fall out when you're changing strings).

 

This photo may support what both Buc and Hogeye are talking about: The ol' LG (with original bridge) shows how sometimes it can look like a replaced bridge where there is no finish below the bridge, but is more likely that the 67 year-old bridge has contracted, exposing the bare wood of the top:

 

 

 

*Are there any other signs of de-hydration of the guitar? Fret ends sticking out? Corduroy effect of the grain raised up? Action changed?

[QuestionMark]

I suggest trying the suggested humidification or simply getting another saddle fitted if it bothers you. Another option is simply to not worry about it. It's very minor and as the saying goes 'don't sweat the small stuff' may make the most sense in this situation unless it significantly enlarges.

[58 Relic]

Reading the installation instructions for the LR. baggs element system they do recommend that the saddle should have a slight forward lean towards the neck and the base of the saddle should be be slightly offset to account for this .

I tried to copy the link but it failed , www.lrbaggs.co.uk under support / element installation guide . If it's a new guitar and its a defect it should be covered by the store or Gibson