saynottingham Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 so I have this brand new SG 2016 (bought online), the intonation was way off right out the box. on the low E I can not get the open string to play the same note as the 12 fret, 12 fret is too sharp no matter what I change. First I tried loosening the truss rod, but it did not have enough effect on the intonation. The only way I could achieve correct intonation was to move the saddle screw all the way down to the bridge, and completely lowering the saddle. Then naturally I get fret buzz and choked notes. Why can't I get the correct intonation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 This is clearly not how it should be. <_< Inconsistent stretching of the winding may cause this. This can occur when the string is overly stretched during stringing. In case the winding gets understretched at the lower frets and overstretched at the upper frets, fretted notes get increasingly sharp when moving to higher frets. Do you have a spare E6 string to try that out? If the other strings are intonateable, in particular the plain G3rd, chances are a new E6 string might be of help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolution Six Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 You know what ? Put a set of you favorite strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidblast Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 What are you using for your tuner? FYI that Smart Phone Apps are known to not be reliable for this. Also not that it's always advisable to intonate with new strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie brown Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 How about taking it to a good luthier, for a good (overall) "set up?!" Just a thought... CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtim Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Take all of your strings off and flip the entire bridge around. It does not matter really which way the intonation screws face as long as they do their job. You may have to swap saddles out for the string notch but if it is a new guitar then the notches will not be all that wide on the low e string anyways. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidblast Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 seems like another post where the OP complains about something, that 98% of us have never had an issue with, then ppl here with some experience chime in with advice, and we never hear from the author of the post again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockyA Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Sheesh!!! I doubt you even let the guitar settle in your environment a few days before messing with the setup. Now you've messed with the truss rod before it has settled in and everything else. Take it back to Gibson Spec and let it settle in a few days or a week, then check setup and tweak if necessary. Then change the strings one at a time and stretch them real good. Then set the intonation with new strings using a good tuner. Should not be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10K-DB Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 seems like another post where the OP complains about something, that 98% of us have never had an issue with, then ppl here with some experience chime in with advice, and we never hear from the author of the post again... lol,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10K-DB Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I always "stretch" the strings after there on,,Ill tune up,,then do alot of "overbends" on all strings,,which knocks it way out of tune,,tune it again,,and repeat till it holds tune,,pretty simple. As far as intonation goes,,do you have "good pitch" by ear? Or are you relying on the tuner device to tell you if its in tune? I tune by ear,,and your open notes should match the notes you play @ the 12th fret. Dont do it by" harmonics" @ the 12th fret. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col Mustard Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 You are experiencing a bizarre situation which seems unlikely to be a fault of your guitar. I also suggest taking this guitar to a professional luthier, the best that you can find or afford. The luthier will be able to put your guitar right. I'm talking about a real luthier, who has a workshop and does repairs and setups. Not the sales guys at GC. The luthier will get the neck straight, correcting any bowing. He will then check your frets to make sure they are all level and none are protruding. The luthier will check your nut slots, and make sure they are cut properly. He will set your action based on your instructions and preferences Once these things are done, he will then set your intonation accurately. If you can't find a luthier or refuse to pay their prices for this work, then you're stuck with your own efforts. I'd first watch an online tutorial on how to set up your new Gibson. First: Get the neck straight, measure it with a yardstick, the straightest one you can buy. Also buy a high quality 6" metal ruler that measures down to 1/64 inch lines and also measures millimeters. Next: new strings. Old dead strings are never useful when you're trying to evaluate a guitar. If the strings that are on there are what came with it, take them all off and install a new set. Old dead strings will not stay in tune. Install your new strings using the "self-locking method' of installing guitar strings. https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=self+locking+method+of+installing+guitar+strings&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 Don't try to analyze the nut if you don't have good professional measuring tools. Then adjust the action of the guitar using the bridge height screws. With your finger on the string at the first fret, set the action to be about 4 mm over the 12th fret for the low E... 3mm for the high E String. Once you've got the action set, then you can adjust the intonation. Buy the best quality electronic tuner you can afford. I use Snarks most of the time, but for more accurate work I have a Korg DT-7. Figure you can set the intonation the same day as you replace the strings and do these other operations but you'll have to check it again the next day and maybe the next as the guitar settles in. The self locking method should help. Using that, I can install strings the right before a gig and go onstage and have very little trouble. Flipping the bridge around will allow you to use the whole travel of the saddle screws if necessary. I don't think it's likely to be necessary, unless your bridge was installed wrong at the factory, which doesn't seem very likely. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingarmadillo Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Just to clarify, these are the screws you need to be adjusting to set the intonation: On my SG (pictured here) the E and the G are almost all the way to the bottom of the adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzysztof Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 You can reverse bridge saddles in E and G in case an intonation problem? You get some milimeters. I have SG Special with this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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