Guitar / Luthier Tools and Secret Tips for Cheapskates!

[bobouz]

Willy - Is that an extra wide aftermarket bridge? If so, who the supplier is?

[Whitmore Willy]

Willy - Is that an extra wide aftermarket bridge? If so, who the supplier is?

Once upon a time, Schecter made after-market replacement parts that fit Gibson guitars.

I don't think I've seen a bridge like it in 25 years. Even back then it was $50. Best I've seen lately, if I need a wide bridge, are the ones from Gotoh.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_Tune-o-matic_bridges/Gotoh_Tune-o-matic_Bridge.html

So far, I've been able to get great intonation using them. Worst case, I might need to reverse a saddle or two. I have them on all my Epis.

 

Willy

[BlueEpiphone]

This thread was a good idea, animalfarm.

 

 

* I removed the content that is off-topic (picture of Bin Laden with "the hairdo")*

[RobinTheHood]

 

Step one is to slacken the strings almost to the point that they are unwinding from the tuners.

Add a capo at first fret.......Insert a pencil near the middle of the fretboard, raise the strings, and take the slack out while readjusting the capo.

 

 

 

That is a great idea! Its funny that I never thought of doing that because I do I do something similar in theory with my Floyd Rose equipped guitars. Instead of a capo, I lock the locknuts and pop off the whole FR bridge. Considering that standard FRs dont have ball-ends at the bridge, it comes in quite handy. Just have to remember to unhook the trem springs first.

[Sjael]

Sometimes you need to remove your strings but you might not want to replace them...

That reminded me of the #1 most valuable tip for owners of Bigsby-equipped guitars.

 

When changing strings (with a Bigsby,) you attach the strings at the bridge end like normal, then pull the string tight and clamp it to the neck with a capo. Lets you wind it onto the tuner like you normally would, no incredibly awkwardness from needing to keep tension on the string <_< .

[bobouz]

Once upon a time, Schecter made after-market replacement parts that fit Gibson guitars.

I don't think I've seen a bridge like it in 25 years. Even back then it was $50. Best I've seen lately, if I need a wide bridge, are the ones from Gotoh.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_Tune-o-matic_bridges/Gotoh_Tune-o-matic_Bridge.html

So far, I've been able to get great intonation using them. Worst case, I might need to reverse a saddle or two. I have them on all my Epis.

 

Willy

Willy - Thanks for the tip re the Stew-Mac bridge.

[jerrymac]

Wanted to start a thread for eventual inclusion in the "Epi Lounge"

Do-it-Yourself thread about the CHEAP TOOLS we've found at hardware stores,

garage sales, etc., and tricks and tips that could be passed on to others.

 

I have some, but this thread will require input from "y'all" and maybe a re-post

of your tips as they are buried in other threads that I cannot remember the titles of.

 

A few that come to mind - Rastus's Whetstone vs levelling block, Willies Crayon trick

for color matching holes, the Pin-drill, and.....???? (total brain dump).

 

Can ya help me??? Can I get a witness???

- amen!

 

 

A Revlon Shape 'n Buff for fret work. Goes from coarse to super fine in various degrees so you can grind, smooth, buff and polish your frets.

[stevierussell]

That reminded me of the #1 most valuable tip for owners of Bigsby-equipped guitars.

 

When changing strings (with a Bigsby,) you attach the strings at the bridge end like normal, then pull the string tight and clamp it to the neck with a capo. Lets you wind it onto the tuner like you normally would, no incredibly awkwardness from needing to keep tension on the string <_< .

 

 

great tip, i'll be trying that - as opposed to struggling, swearing and wishing i had been born with three hands

[Whitmore Willy]

A Revlon Shape 'n Buff for fret work. Goes from coarse to super fine in various degrees so you can grind, smooth, buff and polish your frets.

Jerry,

I thought the crayons for colored wax was cool.

The S+B is very cool! IMHO

 

Willy

[james_edward]

Many of us like the idea of a notched straight edge.

 

 

 

I have no idea how good this guy's are as I now have my own. If he had been around when I made mine, I would have tried his. The extra few bucks would have saved some mess and some time:....$15 + shipping.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/GUITAR-NECK-STRAIGHT-EDGE-Notched-LUTHIERS-TOOL-/260782819476?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3cb7de0894

 

 

Willy

 

Good one Willy - must have tool, But - this is the guy that put me out of the straight edge business - I'd sold at least 70 of these (eBay, Kijiji etc) in the last year, just dropped my listings recently after he started selling his version.

 

I made them 10 at a time (clamped together)from 2"x24"x1/8" aluminum, notches cut with cnc assistance.

 

 

I had 2 sales running selling the same tool exactly, but, one sale for Fender (25.5) and one for Gibson (24.75) - $19.99 each - they were quite popular until this guy found mine and did me 1 better - he did both scales on 1 rule for 2 bucks less - oh well that's business - now to make a jig so I can cut 30 at a time - both scales like his but for 2 bucks less, stay tuned...

[RaSTuS]

Good one Willy - must have tool, But - this is the guy that put me out of the straight edge business - I'd sold at least 70 of these (eBay, Kijiji etc) in the last year, just dropped my listings recently after he started selling his version.

 

I made them 10 at a time (clamped together)from 2"x24"x1/8" aluminum, notches cut with cnc assistance.

 

I had 2 sales running selling the same tool exactly, but, one sale for Fender (25.5) and one for Gibson (24.75) - $19.99 each - they were quite popular until this guy found mine and did me 1 better - he did both scales on 1 rule for 2 bucks less - oh well that's business - now to make a jig so I can cut 30 at a time - both scales like his but for 2 bucks less, stay tuned...

I was thinking of getting one of them following Willy's post, but the shipping to Oz is almost as much as the SE itself, if you can do better James, I;ll wait till you have yours available.

[dem00n]

From what Ive been told...you should never go cheap on tools.

 

Ive been told that from handymen, electricians, engineers, jeweler's, chefs, parents, teachers, firemen and strangers.

I'll try to think of more people who told me that.

[Supersonic]

That reminded me of the #1 most valuable tip for owners of Bigsby-equipped guitars.

 

When changing strings (with a Bigsby,) you attach the strings at the bridge end like normal, then pull the string tight and clamp it to the neck with a capo. Lets you wind it onto the tuner like you normally would, no incredibly awkwardness from needing to keep tension on the string <_< .

 

 

What a great idea. I'll be doing that from now on.

[animalfarm]

Put a magnet on the shaft, and your screwdriver becomes magnetized.

Handling small screws is simpler this way.

 

[jerrymac]

Put a magnet on the shaft, and your screwdriver becomes magnetized.

Handling small screws is simpler this way.

 

 

And should you drop a small screw inside your guitar, you can get a telescoping magnet for about $4.00.

 

 

 

 

I usually see them at Auto supply stores...

 

[RobinTheHood]

Put a magnet on the shaft, and your screwdriver becomes magnetized.

Handling small screws is simpler this way.

 

 

 

IIRC, rubbing the screwdriver tip on a speaker magnet will magnetize the tip as well...as long as its a magnetizable alloy.

[animalfarm]

This link is going in the "Do-it-Yourself" thread, but I thought

I'd "unveil" it here, in case you want to flag it to Favorites or

something:

 

TRADE SECRETS ARCHIVE - STEWMAC

http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/archive

[RaSTuS]

This link is going in the "Do-it-Yourself" thread, but I thought

I'd "unveil" it here, in case you want to flag it to Favorites or

something:

 

TRADE SECRETS ARCHIVE - STEWMAC

http://www.stewmac.c...secrets/archive

Done, fantastic link AF +1.

[Whitmore Willy]

Done, fantastic link AF.

+1...is there anything that isn't covered?

Great find!

 

Willy

[animalfarm]

This Post pulled from another thread that has not had a response, and is fading

into the background. Do not want to see info lost -

 

PROBLEM: CRACKLING NOISE when Guitar Lead moved around in input jack.

 

Solder connection already addressed, this followed:

 

The people on the Fender forum kept telling me it was my amp, no matter how many times

I told them that it has happened on every amp I've tried (at least four).

Once I originally re-soldered the problem disappeared, temporarily.

I rarely play the guitar, so it kind of just went out of mind.

 

OK, referencing your above comment that you re-soldered the connector, I am going

to assume both the Hot and Ground connections were GOOD, utilizing all the wire

strands of each wire? If so.....

 

Your Here/Gone, Here/Gone "Crackling" noise made when you move the lead end around in the

connector sounds like an intermittent connection. (Duh) Besides the wire(s) having broken

strands, or a poor solder joint, it could also be caused by........(Suspense builds) -

 

Sometimes jacks get bent out of shape or the wires get jammed up in a way that can cause a short:

 

 

Notice the bent metal prong at the bottom of the picture? It not only makes a HOT connection

to the tip of your guitar cable, but it also acts like a SPRING to push the Barrel of the

guitar lead against the inside of the Jack to complete the GROUND connection.

 

Over time, and a gazillion connect/disconnects, it IS possible for the "Prong" to be

bent away from the center of the connector, meaning it no longer effectively pushes the

Cable barrel against the inside of the jack, or the TIP connection goes in and out because

of poor contact.

 

Try bending the "prong" torward the center of the connector a bit, then fire up the git again.

(Of course, you'll have to take the jackplate out of the guitar to do this ).

Will it work? Only if I'm right....

 

Also, a little something from the Epi Lounge "DIY" sticky -

Wouldn't hurt to give it a quick clean while you're at it.

 

"Input Jacks - How to keep them CLEAN" - Really!

http://www.300guitars.com/300s-tips/300-tip-how-to-clean/

[bigneil]

This link is going in the "Do-it-Yourself" thread, but I thought

I'd "unveil" it here, in case you want to flag it to Favorites or

something:

 

TRADE SECRETS ARCHIVE - STEWMAC

http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/archive

 

top notch!

[Jeff S]

From what Ive been told...you should never go cheap on tools.

 

Ive been told that from handymen, electricians, engineers, jeweler's, chefs, parents, teachers, firemen and strangers.

I'll try to think of more people who told me that.

 

Absolutely agree. However, there is a difference between cheap (read poorly made) tools and tools not designed for a specific purpose but will still work. Make a slight modification to a standard tool to make it fit some specialty purpose and the price doubles where the original design will work just fine for the average hobbyist who's not making a living from the trade. Take torch tip cleaners for example. Most of us are not cutting bone nuts from blanks on a regular basis but do occassional set up work on our own and guitars of our friends. For that purpose, they work just fine. Cheap tools are bad and worse than no tool at all. "different" tools are usually OK.

 

Jeff

[CasinoLover]

Hi, I bought a "clearance" item at KMart when hunting season was over. I bought a rifle rest, filled w sand and has a leather contact area. I use it for all my guitar maintenance. It suspends the neck perfectly. I think I paid $12.00 for it.....

[animalfarm]

From what Ive been told...you should never go cheap on tools.

 

Ive been told that from handymen, electicians, engineers, jeweler's, chefs, parents,

teachers, firemen and strangers.

ALL OF WHOM haven't a Freeekin' CLUE on how to work on a guitar.

 

Absolutely agree. However, there is a difference between cheap (read poorly made) tools and tools not designed for a specific purpose but will still work. Make a slight modification to a standard tool to make it fit some specialty purpose and the price doubles where the original design will work just fine for the average hobbyist who's not making a living from the trade. Take torch tip cleaners for example. Most of us are not cutting bone nuts from blanks on a regular basis but do occassional set up work on our own and guitars of our friends. For that purpose, they work just fine. Cheap tools are bad and worse than no tool at all. "different" tools are usually OK.

Jeff

 

SEMANTICS, Folks.... All Semantics. Let's not get ridiculously picky.

(Hold on, gotta find my Soapbox....)

 

Since it's original inception in APRIL 2010, The EPI Lounge Do-it-Yourself Thread (made into sticky by Duane - Thank You)

was intended to be a place for weekend warriors like myself to have a source of info regarding how-to's,

before/after, resources, etc. for guitar projects. I started it because I became SICK and TIRED of printing

out sheet after sheet of reference material and putting it into 3-Ring Binders.

 

Although I receive StewMac catalogs, Grizzly Tools Catalogs, etc., I'm not Dan ErleWine, and I don't have

a budget that allows me the luxury of purchasing some of the "correct" high-dollar tools he uses. hence, the DIY, and

hence, THIS thread, though it be called "Cheap Tools". Those of us in the know understand. All contributions welcomed.

 

I drop-fill Poly finish boo-boos with color-match Acrylic Nail polish (can be sanded and buffed), and Jerrymac

suggested a Revlon Nail Polisher for fret work vs files. Now, TRY and explain to the MRS. as to WHY you're hanging

out in the Nail-polish section of the store...

 

I HAVE had the pleasure of seeing some of our other members workshops via previous posts - Ahhhhhhh, the

closest thing to HEAVEN this side of the great beyond....

 

Rather than clutter up this thread with pics of what can be accomplished (DIY has place for projects), I'll

do just one....

 

CHEAP TOOLS:(Heat Gun from Harbor Freight - $9.99?)

 

 

 

END RESULT:(Primer, Paint, Clear Gloss from KRYLON, straight out of "Da Can" - no spray gun, sorry.)

 

 

 

Anyway, SEMANTICS!!!! heh, heh - I'll get off the Soapbox now.

[RaSTuS]

Absolutely agree. However, there is a difference between cheap (read poorly made) tools and tools not designed for a specific purpose but will still work. Make a slight modification to a standard tool to make it fit some specialty purpose and the price doubles where the original design will work just fine for the average hobbyist who's not making a living from the trade. Take torch tip cleaners for example. Most of us are not cutting bone nuts from blanks on a regular basis but do occassional set up work on our own and guitars of our friends. For that purpose, they work just fine. Cheap tools are bad and worse than no tool at all. "different" tools are usually OK.

 

Jeff

As an ex precision fitter/machinist, often working in tolerances of microns, I'll say that good tools meant for purpose will often make a specific task easier to perform but they are expensive and only good for one thing, a total waste of space in most everyone's toolbox, unless you happen to perform the same task on an extremely regular basis, they aren't worth the premium prices they demand. A good general tool used properly will do the job more than adequately in most cases, it's more about technique and finesse with whatever tool you use than the tool itself. Reminds me of that old adage, A bad tradesman will always blame his tools.