The RandyMan Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 All in all, this thread is the reason I keep coming back to this forum. Entertaining, yet informative. You guys are definitely out there and can make me laugh on the worst of days, yet it's also so cool to see the experience coming in from the sidelines and helping someone to accomplish something they may not have attempted before. I've no doubt that the FuzzMan will get this thing going with all the technical support being offered here. Kudos to all of you, and especially to the FuzzMan, for undertaking the task of doing it himself. My hat's off to you, sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 OK fuzz, I think you can tell by some of the not so subtle responses that you definitely have a bit to much solder there. Here are my suggestions: Start by cleaning up as much of the solder as possible. Get a decent solder sucker and some de-solder wick braid. Start by using the solder sucker as much as possible and then use the desolder braid to finish cleaning it up. The desolder braid is just fine copper wire braid. Lay it on top of the solder joint and heat it with the soldering iron and the solder will wick in to it. Once you get all the excess solder of. Take an exacto knife or nail whatever and lightly scrape between the traces just to make sure there are no tiny solder bridges remaining. Get the smallest pointiest solder tip you can get for your iron. Also get the finest soldering wire you can get. This will help you from getting to much solder on the connection. Also make sure you have a lightly damp sponge to clean your tip after each solder joint. Make sure the leads from the components are sticking straight up and and then touch the tip of the iron to the lead and the pad and flow just enough solder to make the connection. This should take only a second or two at the most. Then snip the remaining bit of lead off. Take your time and remember this is soldering not steel welding. One of those multi clip solder clamps are helpful for holding the board up while you solder. There is a couple of vids on you tubes of guys soldering pedal boards. Check them out... and don't let these guys get to you. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimbabig Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Also use lead solder if you're not, it sticks better, even though it's been known to cause cancer in the state of California, but that's okay because you're in Illinois. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I seen worse. Heck, I have done worse. Digital pics can play tricks, but I am pretty sure I see a lot of places where the solder on the board is too big and thus making connections over the traces on the board. On the plus side, regarding your soldering, I see good beads and no cold joints. but for what you are doing here on a little circuit board, they are too big. I suggest you get a tip cleaner for your soldering gun to wipe off excess solder from the tip between beads. Also, if you do not have a gun with replaceable tips, you can take a file and shape the tip to make it smaller to fit your needs. In addition to a solder sucker, get some desoldering braid. It is a copper braid that you heat up to get excess solder to flow on it. It sometimes works better than a solder sucker in some places, but also allows you to wipe a spot clean after solder sucking if you want to "renew" a spot. All real men have a ****-up kit. Any expert soldering dude has these things to fine tune his work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 lol..or what ^andy said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I just got a 25 watt Weller soldering iron with a conical tip (heats up to about 750 degrees), some 22 guage 63/37 solder, and a super wick at Frys today all for $20. I've started working on a board today with it and it's working really well. Like Andy said, just hold the iron to the lead and pad at the same time for a couple seconds and then touch the solder to the leg and pad. Don't put the solder on the iron itself. Then pull away real quick so you don't put too much solder on and don't move the component for a few seconds. You don't want to move anything before the solder has hardened. Also, it helps to put just a little solder on your iron before you hold it to the lead and pad. Also if you don't have a clamp to hold your pcb, just hold the board steady with your solder hand. If you read the soldering tips and help or whatever thing over at guitar pcb it's really helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenced Fred Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 going to Fry's tomorrow to look at maybe getting a new soldering iron, a desolderer pump and maybe that tip cleaner thing Thanks guys, and Dub, check yo email fool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 fuzz I believe this is a representation of your board. What is Black is all the ground plane. So anything marked with a negative side should somehow be connecting to the black area ( like your polarized caps and transistors. The green areas you can't even have a tiny little bit of solder running across or you will be shorting to ground the areas that are "Copper" have to be isolated from the black and cant touch the black in any way shape or form other than by an electrical component such as a resistor or capacitor acting as a jumper. Like I said small pointy tip, and thin solder will help a bunch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 going to Fry's tomorrow to look at maybe getting a new soldering iron, a desolderer pump and maybe that tip cleaner thing Thanks guys, and Dub, check yo email fool BTW Tip cleaner thing is just a sponge with little slits in it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 I seen worse. Heck, I have done worse. Digital pics can play tricks, but I am pretty sure I see a lot of places where the solder on the board is too big and thus making connections over the traces on the board. On the plus side, regarding your soldering, I see good beads and no cold joints. but for what you are doing here on a little circuit board, they are too big. I suggest you get a tip cleaner for your soldering gun to wipe off excess solder from the tip between beads. Also, if you do not have a gun with replaceable tips, you can take a file and shape the tip to make it smaller to fit your needs. In addition to a solder sucker, get some desoldering braid. It is a copper braid that you heat up to get excess solder to flow on it. It sometimes works better than a solder sucker in some places, but also allows you to wipe a spot clean after solder sucking if you want to "renew" a spot. All real men have a ****-up kit. Any expert soldering dude has these things to fine tune his work. Is there an echo in here???? Have to be careful "sharpening" some tips ( depending on the type). If you file off the plating they tend not to want to hold any solder.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Californiaman Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Fred, soldering is a delicate procedure. Take it from me man, I've had to solder plugs for air crafts. Delicate does not begin to describe the patience and refined technique used for such applications. Take your time. Work on your soldering a little. Remember this... a little will go a long way. Small tips are best for intricate work. You'll be fine, don't get discouraged. In my case, I've never lost an airplane. At least none that I know of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrosurfer1959 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Almost everybody starts out using way to much solder and the solder wire is usually the culprit fine small guage solder and a clean tip on a small iron is the key it doesn't take hardly any solder at all if it's in the right place. Soldering takes some practice it's one of those things that look easy but isn't until you get some practice. I was substitute teaching a jewelry class last week with a class of new student that were just learning to silver solder you would be amazed how much damage can be done with a Acetylene/oxygen torch the first time people try to use it. The only soldering tip I would suggest that I haven't seen already on this post is pre-tinning your wires and contacts that way you can use a lot less solder and still get good solid solder connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrosurfer1959 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest farnsbarns Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Fred, You're probably feeling a little over loaded with info now, furthermore I risk patronizing you with this post, rest assured, I am very aware that you are very intelligent and I just don't want you to miss out on any one nugget that may be the thing that gets you through this. First, use only flux cored, SILVER, electrical solder. Lead solder is not right for the job as it is much more resistive. Second, no one has mentioned tinning a new iron tip. Give the very tip a very light rub with emery cloth/fine sand paper, coat it with solder, leave it hot with solder on it for 5 minutes, wipe it on a damp sponge, turn it of and let it cool completely, now it's ready to use. As mentioned, clean off what you've got as best you can and scrape between the tracks to remove any bridges. I half suspect that where the switch is connected to the board, there is an earth leak. This would explain why you can get the effect when wired one way but no by pass and vice versa so take particular care to scrape around those connections. Good luck fella, you'll look back on this process of learning with fondness once you are the resident DIY pedal expert which I fully expect you to become what with your pedal knowledge and ability to use effects subtlety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Californiaman Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Fred, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Look at all the experience you've gained in just a couple of days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djroge1 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 It was a FuzzRite kit from Mammoth Electronics, with modifications. The board is different Don't judge my soldering, there are probably little bits of my burned skin scattered throughout the pedal enclosure Kill me now, I'm seriously considering starting all over. I know the wires are a mess, I think I'm going to take em all off and then start over... So if you had sound at one point but when you hit the switch it goes away - this tells me that it's not the board. It is true that you just need more practice to get it looking cleaner. But if you had sound and it was a good sound then it's probably not the board. I would watch out for those stray wires on the switch - there are a couple of stays you need to trim. Also as Andy mentioned you need to watch out for stray solder on the board itself. While you're on the hunt for tools you should think about small wire cutters and small needle nose pliers. I use these from Sears: 5pc Mini-Pliers set for around $26. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Owww. I just burnt my finger. Nothing brings the pain like a hot soldeing iron. I think I just cooked myself a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ne14t? Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Owww. I just burnt my finger. Nothing brings the pain like a hot soldeing iron. I think I just cooked myself a little. I took electronics in school for 2.5 years and even had an extra credit course as a teachers assistant in the first year class and I think this was the biggest problem, at least one or two people would burn themselves each class, its a learning curve. And Fred if that's your first attempt at soldering its not that bad at all, especially if you didn't toast any of your components I would say your doing stellar. I will second the suggestion of a real thin solder, but I would skip the flux core and just get some liquid flux and brush it on the board, I find flux core generally has too much flux and can start getting messy especially for such a small project if you were soldering brass pipe it would be swank. Also you might find it easier to get a solid connection if you cover your copper trace with a thin layer of solder, this can be accomplished by heating the trace up with the soldering iron and melting the solder directly on the trace not the iron, then spread it nice and thin over the trace. You will find its a lot easier to solder pieces onto the board with less solder, this was the best trick my teacher taught me. If your looking at starting over, you have to get a solder sucker like this goober and your life will be SOOOOOOOOOO easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreslauer Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Owww. I just burnt my finger. Nothing brings the pain like a hot soldeing iron. I think I just cooked myself a little. Yep, this is the worst. Ouch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenced Fred Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Just got a solder sucker, heading out to the city with my friend right now. More later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silenced Fred Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 Pissed off, I think the solder sucker works good, except that what little bit is on the copper, won't come off. I'm gonna go get a breadboard and put together the components using their schematic. Its all a learning experience, that's the way I look at it Inside, I wanna kill myself, but its a good learning experience Anyone ever use a breadboard for building? As I understand it, you just use little bits of wire to make the connections... more info later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest farnsbarns Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Yeah, there'll always be a bit left behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 You could use a solder wick to finish cleaning it up. I want to get some vero board. Looks cooler than pcbs. I want to try some eyelet action too, but that may be getting a bit ahead of myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreslauer Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 You could use a solder wick to finish cleaning it up. I want to get some vero board. Looks cooler than pcbs. I want to try some eyelet action too, but that may be getting a bit ahead of myself. go for it! then get into some amp building! :) the inside of my homebuilt 18W Lite IIb amp: have fun! Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ne14t? Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 go for it! then get into some amp building! :) the inside of my homebuilt 18W Lite IIb amp: have fun! Don Point to point is so sexy looking, all vintage like and stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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