Whitmore Willy Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 Now, I want everyone to know this is not the only way to replace tuners. It may not be the best way. It may not even be the correct way. It is my way. Nothing fancy, nothing more and nothing less. Step 1. Removing tuners and bushings. Nothing special here. Remove the screws. Now we need to remove the bushings. These are the tools I used. A scratch awl and a masonry bit: Many of you have probably seen this video. It is one way of removing one type of bushing. Personally, I use the concept, but, not to the extent of complete removal. Moving on. I carefully used the scratch awl to "slightly" expand the hole and loosen the bushing. I then effortlessly pushed the bushing out using the blunt end of the masonry bit while supporting the headstock: Next, these are the tools I used to enlarge the holes and for the remainder of the tuner replacement: Well. the holes are empty and the wife is calling me for dinner. I'll be back in a while to explain how I enlarged the holes and installed the new tuners. Willy
Whitmore Willy Posted November 15, 2011 Author Posted November 15, 2011 Oh.....I hate intermission! LOL....me too. Doesn't take much to screw up my concentration anymore! So...Installing tuners. (This is where a good jig, a drill press and a quality drill bit would save time.) Anyway, This is how I did it. I opened up the top (only) of the hole with the $10 Sears reamer. Only to the point of matching the diameter of the tuner: Once the outsides of the hole is correct I used the Dremel to route the inside to match...(10mm) Keep in mind that the nut/bushing coming from the other side only needs the existing 8mm. Therefore, I did't open the hole all the way through. (Not that there is anything wrong with doing that.) If, at this point, I was going to consider this a finished project, I would have filled the old screw holes with crayon wax. (I simply take some wax scrapings from a crayon and work them into the holes with my finger...Then polish over) I then inserted the tuners two at a time, starting at the bottom. I finger tightened the washers and screw in bushings. I used a straight edge to align them. I used a needle as a center punch: I then used the pin drill to pre-drill the start of the screw holes: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00940737000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 The rest is pretty basic. I screwed the tuner in place. I tightened the nut/bushing with the washer into the tuner from the top side. Done...new tuners. Next project will be to clean up the fret board including removing a nasty dent. Willy
animalfarm Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 Lord, you can't help but LOVE a $20.00 project guitar. Way to go, Willy!
RobinTheHood Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 Great tutorial, Willy! I need to get some reamers. Luckily, my drill bit was nice and sharp and I didnt having any chipping, but a reamer would have eased my nerves a bit. Also, I used a small phillips screwdriver as a punch for the screw holes. It seemed to work pretty good. Nice job with not going all that way through the headstock. I did the same thing. It really keeps the headstock looking nice without running the risk of chipping the finish when the bit comes out the other side. I also dig the stright-edge trick for lining up the tuners. I hadnt thought of that. I will remember it for next time though. Cant wait to see what else gets dont to this guitar.
brad1 Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 I agree with RTH. Good job explaining how you did everything, and terrific pics to match. I like the crayon trick. Never heard of that. But will probably use it some time down the road. Thanks Willy!
Whitmore Willy Posted November 16, 2011 Author Posted November 16, 2011 Thanks guys for the compliments. Really kind of humbling. And after all, modesty is my greatest virtue! As to the crayon wax. It just depends on the situation. If it's just headstock screw holes and they are not near where the new holes will be, crayons make for an easy color match. If it needs to be structural then I use the toothpick trick. If it is a combination of both then I sometimes cut the tooth pick just slightly below the surface. Then it may get finished with wax or nail polish. Between the three it can also be useful for hiding holes on guitars that have the pickguard removed. (although I would just run the screw back in....never bothered me) Anyway, it didn't matter here as all I'm trying to do now is get it playable. I think in the long run I may take Brian's advice and refinish the whole guitar. Willy
RobinTheHood Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 I'll have to try the crayon trick on the Junior. I have a bottle of acrylic paint that is a pretty close match. I was going to use that, but then remembered that the paint will settle into the hole and will take many applications to actually fill it. Definitely tryng the crayon trick. I love the tookpick trick though. I didnt like where the bottom tuners lined up after screwing them in. So I filled the holes with toothpick ends and drill new ones right next to them. Worked like a charm!
danl56 Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 I hope you do decide to refinsh it Willy. Got one I need to start on a samick, would enjoy keeping up on all of the mods learning some of the tradesmans tricks so to speak. So keep us posted Willy it has been very informative thanx
BlueEpiphone Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 To all guitar or wood working newbies: Do as Willy says. I did my 2 Epi.s without pre-tapering the bores and I am lucky to have only one chip of missing paint (you can easily see it). I was worrying about "wood" but paint will chip too. Good work Willy. I would also like to see a refinish (pictures of course). Thank you.
Zentar Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 I think I prefer my 10mm drill bit. I would never use a Dremel. Did you add the $10 reamer to the price of the tuners? Now you own a reamer you won't ever need again. Here's the correct way to add a new tuner. 1: Drill a 10mm hole. 2: You're done.
LPS1976 Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 I think I prefer my 10mm drill bit. I would never use a Dremel. Did you add the $10 reamer to the price of the tuners? Now you own a reamer you won't ever need again. Here's the correct way to add a new tuner. 1: Drill a 10mm hole. 2: You're done. actually, using a reamer is a safer way to make the hole bigger...there's a lot more room for error using a drill. how do you know he will never need it again? don't always assume the way YOU do things is the only way to do it.
joevacc Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 When I changed the tuners on my 62/50 Sheraton I used the appropriate sized drill bit and turned it carefully with my hand. There was no need to use a machine... As a matter of fact, any hole enlargement job I have done on guitars have only been done by hand. Works on pick guards too. A sharp quality bit is always a good idea... Good luck, jv
rjc0 Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 When I changed the tuners on my 62/50 Sheraton I used the appropriate sized drill bit and turned it carefully with my hand. There was no need to use a machine... As a matter of fact, any hole enlargement job I have done on guitars have only been done by hand. Works on pick guards too. A sharp quality bit is always a good idea... Good luck, jv Same here when enlarging the holes for upgrading from alpha pots to Area 59 CTS pots on a Casino, didn't have a reamer so hand turned a 10mm drill bit, considered using a battery power drill, then came to my senses before risking screwing it up.
ErickC Posted August 12, 2015 Posted August 12, 2015 The 'correct' way to do it is technically to dowel holes and re-drill them, but a reamer is a decent substitute. Drill bits will generally tend to walk due to the interaction with the grain.
Whitmore Willy Posted August 15, 2015 Author Posted August 15, 2015 I think I prefer my 10mm drill bit. I would never use a Dremel. Did you add the $10 reamer to the price of the tuners? Now you own a reamer you won't ever need again. Now, I want everyone to know this is not the only way to replace tuners. It may not be the best way. It may not even be the correct way. It is my way. Nothing fancy, nothing more and nothing less. (My First Comment!!!) Did someone resurrect this 3 1/2 yr.old thread just to criticize? Let's see your expert work..... And yes, I use the reamer on an average of a guitar or two every week. Willy
johntrem Posted November 28, 2015 Posted November 28, 2015 Good response, Willy. The late Greg (animalfarm) helped me out a great deal when I was switching out tuners on my SG and suggested the use of a reamer. I popped down to the local Sears Hardware, picked one up and it did the trick nicely and yes, I've used it since when replacing other tuners.
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