Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

Guitar nut questions

Mr. E

By Mr. E
in Epiphone Electrics

Recommended Posts

Mr. E

Mr. E

Posted
Posted

Hello, I was talking to my friend the other day and he asked me about guitar nuts. He has problems going out of tune because his nut binds. He was giving me all these options about how to fix it and he asked me for advice. I really don't know what to tell him so I came here to ask you guys.

 

He said the following:

*Locking nut with a fine tuning tailpiece ( I think it's this http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/PTTP030.jpg)

*Graphite nut... but he asked me if it would affect sound.

*A Gibson nut... asked me if it would help if replacing a plastic nut.

 

The guitar is an Epiphone Les Paul Studio

 

Thanks for your time and help

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ricochet

Ricochet

Posted
Posted

First, if a guitar has tuning issues because of a binding nut, it makes sense to fix the nut before anything else...

A locking nut would be an extreme measure. Lots of work and a totally different feel.

Regarding the Graphite or Gibson/bone nut. Any of those would be an upgrade from plastic.

Results will vary on workmanship. I would rather have a properly cut cheapy than a bone/graphite nut that binds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mr. E

Mr. E

Posted
  • Author
Posted
First' date=' if a guitar has tuning issues because of a binding nut, it makes sense to fix the nut before anything else...

A locking nut would be an extreme measure. Lots of work and a totally different feel.

Regarding the Graphite or Gibson/bone nut. Any of those would be an upgrade from plastic.

Results will vary on workmanship. I would rather have a properly cut cheapy than a bone/graphite nut that binds.[/quote']

I'll tell him about the graphite nut or the gibson nut.

I have one question... will a gibson nut work? I don't think the local guitar center will have graphite nuts so I could tell him to order it if the gibson nut doesn't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mr. E

Mr. E

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There are no real replacement nuts that drops right in. Any nut will have to be cut and shaped specificly for that guitar IMO.

 

No. The Gibson nut is the same dimension as Epis in length(42mm) and width(5mm)' date=' but differs in height. [/quote']

 

How about if you sand the gibson nut? Would'nt it be like cutting and shaping any other nut to fit the guitar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
glenn1281733995

glenn1281733995

Posted
Posted

I think that Gibson nuts are plastic anyway. Naturally I stand corrected.

You gotta get the nut slots right. Its easy as **** to clean the slots out a bit to allow the string to pass smoothly. You can also put a little lead pencil graphite? into each slot to provide a little lube. Works a treat. Like someone else said, a locking nut is a major undertaking and not really necessary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
djroge1

djroge1

Posted
Posted

Fixing the nut already installed is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to do.

 

I have this as a slight problem on my epiphone moderne on one string, but it's not bothered me enough to actually fix it - it's towards the bottom on my to-do list.

 

This is what I plan on buying/doing: Go to:StewMac.com Mitchel Abrasiive cord

 

buy the poper size cord (depends on what/which string(s) are binding) and try this. The only thing I don't like about StewMac is you have to place a minimum order of $30 then also pay shipping. However, Mithell Abrasive cord may be sold somewhere else without a min order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ricochet

Ricochet

Posted
Posted
I think that Gibson nuts are plastic anyway. Naturally I stand corrected.

 

Well there is plastic as in the economy mold plastic as used by Epi.. and a boatload of artificial (plastic)nut material like Tusq, Corian, Slipstone(Delrin?), Nylon and 1 or 2 others I forgot. I think Gibson uses Corian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GlennW

GlennW

Posted
Posted
Fixing the nut already installed is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to do.

 

I have this as a slight problem on my epiphone moderne on one string' date=' but it's not bothered me enough to actually fix it - it's towards the bottom on my to-do list.

 

This is what I plan on buying/doing: Go to:StewMac.com Mitchel Abrasiive cord

 

buy the poper size cord (depends on what/which string(s) are binding) and try this. The only thing I don't like about StewMac is you have to place a minimum order of $30 then also pay shipping. However, Mithell Abrasive cord may be sold somewhere else without a min order.

 

I agree, spend some time shaping the slots in the original nut.

 

I just ordered a radiused neck sanding block from Stew-Mac and there was no $30 minimum; $21.45 total. It used to be a $40 minimum before the www. That's the first thing I've ordered from them since '95. They made me mad and I said "never again", but it was my only option for the block.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
glenn1281733995

glenn1281733995

Posted
Posted

 

Well there is plastic as in the economy mold plastic as used by Epi.. and a boatload of artificial (plastic)nut material like Tusq' date=' Corian, Slipstone(Delrin?), Nylon and 1 or 2 others I forgot. I think Gibson uses Corian.[/quote']

Thanks Ricochet. Ive heard people say the Gib nut is bone and I know thats not usually true. I didnt consider that it might be made of a different quality plastic. I makes sense.

Back to the OP, Ive never changed a nut (filed a few though). I researched the subject once and decided that the Graphtec and Tusq nuts seemed like a good economical replacement/upgrade to the std Epi nut. About 10 or $15 a piece, pre-cut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
james_edward

james_edward

Posted
Posted

A Tusq nut, which comes perfectly pre-slotted and fits Epi LP's and SG's with very little work, just filing the lower edge until the overall height is correct. I''ve fitted 2 LP's and 2 SG's with them and they work great, the slotting works perfectly for 9's and 10's but I've never tried a heavier string.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...
  • 6 months later...
adzhamilton

adzhamilton

Posted
Posted
A Tusq nut' date=' which comes perfectly pre-slotted and fits Epi LP's and SG's with very little work, just filing the lower edge until the overall height is correct. I''ve fitted 2 LP's and 2 SG's with them and they work great, the slotting works perfectly for 9's and 10's but I've never tried a heavier string. [/quote']

 

which one fits the les paul? thanks [biggrin] i just want it fixed [confused]

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Swoop

Swoop

Posted
Posted

The GraphTech website tells you which nut will fit on an Epiphone.

 

http://graphtech.com/product-137-2/

This is the Tusq nut you need for Epiphone guitars.

 

Or, if you require a black one, which you probably will on an SG, you can use the Tusq XL, which is impregnated with Teflon, which is excellent for reducing friction and binding.

http://graphtech.com/product-311-2/

 

Plenty of folks will tell you that a pre slotted nut is useless, and that you need to have a nut custom made for the requirements of your guitar. However, the Graphtech Tusq nuts are an excellent, almost direct replacement. They are slightly taller than they need to be, and can easily be sanded down to the correct height. The string slots aren't all that deep and can be slotted more if need be, and the two I linked to are correctly spaced for Epiphones

 

I have the XL on my G400, and don't experience any binding or tuning issues. I didn't with the old plastic nut either, but the slots were too deep and caused fret buzz. The XL does indeed increase harmonic content just as Graphtech claim. In fact the guitar is considerably brighter and sounds more defined now. Maybe a little too bright, but that's what a tone control is for!

 

I don't have an issue with the nuts on any of my other guitars, so the plastic ones will stay. I don't really want to alter their sound either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
brad1

brad1

Posted
Posted
The GraphTech website tells you which nut will fit on an Epiphone.

 

http://graphtech.com/product-137-2/

This is the Tusq nut you need for Epiphone guitars.

 

Or' date=' if you require a black one, which you probably will on an SG, you can use the Tusq XL, which is impregnated with Teflon, which is excellent for reducing friction and binding.

http://graphtech.com/product-311-2/

 

Plenty of folks will tell you that a pre slotted nut is useless, and that you need to have a nut custom made for the requirements of your guitar. However, the Graphtech Tusq nuts are an excellent, almost direct replacement. They are slightly taller than they need to be, and can easily be sanded down to the correct height. The string slots aren't all that deep and can be slotted more if need be, and the two I linked to are correctly spaced for Epiphones

 

I have the XL on my G400, and don't experience any binding or tuning issues. I didn't with the old plastic nut either, but the slots were too deep and caused fret buzz. The XL does indeed increase harmonic content just as Graphtech claim. In fact the guitar is considerably brighter and sounds more defined now. Maybe a little too bright, but that's what a tone control is for!

 

I don't have an issue with the nuts on any of my other guitars, so the plastic ones will stay. I don't really want to alter their sound either. [/quote']

 

I agree with you 100% !

I have Tusq nuts on all my electric guitars.

I recommend you buy them on ebay rather than Graphtech.

You can find them on ebay for Half as much. And they work great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Gordy01

Gordy01

Posted
Posted

Good call Swoop. I just saw Muzikron bangin' his head against the wall.

He is of course, a professional tech and easily repairs these things.

I am a part time tech. That means is I can do setups, fret levels and most other things.

The only thing I haven't done yet is a complete refret.

Fabricating a nut from a blank is the way to go if you have the tools. It's pretty easy.

Cheapest too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
barrysrq

barrysrq

Posted
Posted

Another believer in GraphTech here. I put a pre-slotted ivory color Tusq on a Guild Starfire 12 string, and a black Tusq pre-slotted Epiphone nut on my Dot. Both required only sandpaper on the bottom to reach proper height, slight sanding on the ends to perfect width, and an Xacto knife and small file to clean the nut slot of old (factory) glue and excess paint. Both guitars have perfect string spacing and radius, and sound great!

 

I have a metal straightedge ruler that fits from the nut slots to the bridge saddles to check nut height as I work, measurement at first two frets is easy. Middle and lower frets will look way off as neck "relaxes" without string tension.

 

I am no technician, just like to maintain my own guitars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bonzoboy

bonzoboy

Posted
Posted

Nut binding can be resolved in several ways:1.Go to a lighter gauge string,the present strings maybe of a heavier gauge than the nut was cut for. 2.Have an"experienced"tech redo the slots with a proper nut file. 3. Apply graphite or a "nutsauce"lube to the nut.There's also a possibility it may not be the nut at all,it could be too many winds around the stringpost,2 or 3 winds at the most are sufficent.The strings need to be stretched while tuning when changing strings,if not the new set will give constant tuning problems.The bridge itself may be binding and requiring lube.The cheapest option is to start with a string stretch and lube of all points the string touches the guitar,bridge,nut,string tees.If these methods fail go to a tech,that is of course after trying lighter strings.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...