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Dub-T-123

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Damn dude you did the final steps of that quick. Congrats on getting another one sold. Seems like the customers are coming faster huh?

Yup, but that's cos I finished on the weekend so ive been saving the build until it was delivered :D (this build came from one of the shows I did in October) ... And yes the work is coming now not so much with the builds (yet) but ive been getting random service work, which is actually what you want more as its more frequent.. But yeah man, heres hoping.. The last one I had told me he was recommended to me by someone im not even aware I have met before :)

 

Actually the very latest thing is that someone has asked if I can fill or buff a scratch out of an black Hummingbird... Ive watched many videos on the subject but think for now I will actually have too turn that down.. Im not going to even risk screwing up someone's beloved guitar if theres even a tiny doubt that I actually have the skill to do it,

Edited by Rabs
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Yup, but that's cos I finished on the weekend so ive been saving the build until it was delivered :D (this build came from one of the shows I did in October) ... And yes the work is coming now not so much with the builds (yet) but ive been getting random service work, which is actually what you want more as its more frequent.. But yeah man, heres hoping.. The last one I had told me he was recommended to me by someone im not even aware I have met before :)

 

Actually the very latest thing is that someone has asked if I can fill or buff a scratch out of an black Hummingbird... Ive watched many videos on the subject but think for now I will actually have too turn that down.. Im not going to even risk screwing up someone's beloved guitar if theres even a tiny doubt that I actually have the skill to do it,

Nitro is actually relatively easy to repair because the finish contains a solvent which will melt the coats together. I wouldn’t want to do it because of the liability with such an expensive guitar. Scary!

 

Hopefully the customer can accept that as a part of playing a guitar, it happens sometimes. Just gotta roll with it

 

Of course Dan makes it look really easy. I have the stuff to do it myself but would be afraid to touch such an expensive guitar

Edited by Dub-T-123
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Nitro is actually relatively easy to repair because the finish contains a solvent which will melt the coats together. I wouldn’t want to do it because of the liability with such an expensive guitar. Scary!

 

Hopefully the customer can accept that as a part of playing a guitar, it happens sometimes. Just gotta roll with it

 

Of course Dan makes it look really easy. I have the stuff to do it myself but would be afraid to touch such an expensive guitar

Ohh yeah.. Ive seen MANY vids and I think I could do it BUT im really not sure.. And in theory black is black so should be easy to do.. but still that really would be poop my pants time [crying] :)

 

I guess it would be worth me buying a cheap guitar to practice that sort of thing.. Its those sort of jobs on expensive instruments which you can get a bit more money for but is a really specialised thing to do.

 

Edited by Rabs
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Cool!

 

What has to be done?

Well hes got some new tuners that he wants me to install.. no biggie there.. The main issue it seems is that theres a rattling coming from the bridge area.. Couldn't see anything obvious but will look properly tomorrow. Something may reveal itself when I take the strings off. Ohh and the intonation is out too.

Edited by Rabs
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  • 1 month later...

Yet another Rangemaster. I wanted one for my studio and whipped this up Monday night but haven’t posted yet as I’ve been distracted by the new Martin. Since this is for my studio I didn’t bother putting any effort into aesthetics, but it sounds great with that NKT transistor

 

If any of you guys are interested I can post the stripboard layout that I made for this build

 

vmv1O62.jpg

Max96J2.jpg

RZ8ngLe.jpg

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Yet another Rangemaster. I wanted one for my studio and whipped this up Monday night but haven’t posted yet as I’ve been distracted by the new Martin. Since this is for my studio I didn’t bother putting any effort into aesthetics, but it sounds great with that NKT transistor

 

If any of you guys are interested I can post the stripboard layout that I made for this build

 

vmv1O62.jpg

Max96J2.jpg

RZ8ngLe.jpg

 

Nice, Man. I love a good Rangemaster!

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Nice work Rabs. I don't remember seeing that oak arrow with the darker wood plates on top in it's complete state. That looks sweet

Cheers :)

 

Yeah, that's a cool guitar actually, I really like the way the back of the neck looks...

 

I think that was the second ever guitar I fully finished a neckthrough too(which at the time was actually easier for me than doing a tennon joint :unsure: )... I have actually been thinking about doing some work on it to make it a bit better.. Theres no roundover at all on either side of the body.. And if you see that shot where you see the back of the bridge you will see its quite high so I want to do something about that too.. I don't think my fret levelling was that good at that point either so I know it needs some work. It is otherwise a pretty unique guitar, im not even sure why I put those mahogany plates on now :)

 

Edited by Rabs
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It would be a ***** to try and round over the top with the neck on there. You could kinda feather it away from the fretboard and that might look kinda cool

Had to do it with the neck through I made.. I can get pretty close and finish the rest by hand... Even though it will be much harder with the fretboard in the way too. I will see... Ive never taken that guitar to a show yet either.

 

3NXGaLY.jpg

Edited by Rabs
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Had to do it with the neck through I made.. I can get pretty close and finish the rest by hand... Even though it will be much harder with the fretboard in the way too. I will see... Ive never taken that guitar to a show yet either.

 

3NXGaLY.jpg

Have you thought about doing the edge detail on the wings before gluing them to the neck? You’d have to finish the edge detail at the bottom of the neck after but I think that might be easier

 

I can tell from looking at my Ric that they had to have done the binding on the wings before gluing them to the neck, and it doesn’t continue at the bottom of the body/neck where the tailpiece mostly covers

Edited by Dub-T-123
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Have you thought about doing the edge detail on the wings before gluing them to the neck? Youd have to finish the edge detail at the bottom of the neck after but I think that might be easier

 

I can tell from looking at my Ric that they had to have done the binding on the wings before gluing them to the neck, and it doesnt continue at the bottom of the body/neck where the tailpiece mostly covers

Yeah I did think about that.. But when I glued it I was confusing myself on the exact position of both the fretboard an where the horns will meet the body..

 

The thing is finishing that small bit that leads up to the body isn't hard... so its no real bother which ever way I do it, you always have to be careful whatever :)

Edited by Rabs
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Headstock inlay and refinish on my SGJ

 

Inlaying plastic is NOT easy, come to find out. Inlaying the star took a long time. The Gibson logo is an overlay but it got super tricky because it is old and broke off in like 6 pieces at the time I was superglueing it. It was almost panic mode for 10 minutes while handling black superglue. I kept a cool head and saved it. The S is a bit off since the glue dried on me and I had to keep going. Considering what o was dealing with I still cannot believe I saved the logo.

 

https://flic.kr/p/FK3FGt

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Headstock inlay and refinish on my SGJ

 

Inlaying plastic is NOT easy, come to find out. Inlaying the star took a long time. The Gibson logo is an overlay but it got super tricky because it is old and broke off in like 6 pieces at the time I was superglueing it. It was almost panic mode for 10 minutes while handling black superglue. I kept a cool head and saved it. The S is a bit off since the glue dried on me and I had to keep going. Considering what o was dealing with I still cannot believe I saved the logo.

 

https://flic.kr/p/FK3FGt

That looks like a great job [thumbup]

 

Ive only done squares and trapezoids well and dots but that's easy as.... Its a long process if you do it the old school way which I do, but I have a dremel and want to get into doing some slightly fancier inlays at some point. Id also like to do carvings in the bodies aswell... So much I want to do, such little time [unsure]

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Headstock inlay and refinish on my SGJ

 

Inlaying plastic is NOT easy, come to find out. Inlaying the star took a long time. The Gibson logo is an overlay but it got super tricky because it is old and brittle and broke off in like 6 pieces at the time I was superglueing it. It was almost panic mode for 10 minutes while handling black superglue and tiny pieces stuck to my fingers. I kept a cool head and saved it. The S is a bit off since the glue dried on me and I had to keep going. Considering what I was dealing with I still cannot believe I saved the logo. These logos cannot be found anymore.

 

26085047047_866bd82a5e_k.jpg

Edited by Riffster
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Thanks man, yea, this pic shows details at their worse. None of the breaks can be seen from a foot away.

 

It looks good I think, better than a waterslide would. In real life it does look like MOP. The star is actually MOP.

 

The reason I replaced the logo is that, well, I had one laying around for years and that the logos on these SGJs are like 30% larger, they look a bit funny.

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