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Dub-T-123

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Can you make your own?

 

amazon link 1

or

Amazon li nk 2

 

Just a thought

Cheers.. Yes I have some of this but it wont look as good as the silver ones I get..

 

It is one of my backup plans :) Also the decals I get that I order, they make are very very thin and thus good for this job..

 

We will see.. I will sort something out tomorrow.. Theres also a chance if they get in touch with me and can get them to me by Thursday, I will be ok.. JUST....

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Could you wait for a new batch, or are they out of the picture. Good luck, jones'ing to see this with the fretboard uncovered?

Check these pics then :) (just for you)

 

So I did have some of my logos printed and used one.. Im not that happy about it but rather this than show it without a logo or not at all... If I get interest on the guitar I will just explain why its got a different logo and will offer to change it if they want.

 

Heres the logos

o8JAQ7u.jpg

 

I have this solution I use on my decals.. It helps soften them a bit and helps them stick down.

Ppr78Xe.jpg

 

Stick it in some warm water

cHpQqxS.jpg

 

And its on

u7BtaB8.jpg

 

19yqtrw.jpg

 

Then while that was drying I decided to take the masking tape off the neck and stick the pickups in to see how its looking :)

jBUzMqH.jpg?1

 

gO0C3lB.jpg

 

BhTbBDI.jpg?1

 

DNodeuK.jpg

 

bJmZDfy.jpg

 

What do you think?

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Did the frets today.. So I thought id do a how too.. Will be long and I will try and explain best I can.. Ask if there are any questions..

 

Right..

 

Fret tools.. radius block, side and bevel block, fret leveller, triangular file, fret end file, marker pen, fret rocker, lots of sandpaper :)

sz6TEEq.jpg?1

 

First thing is to cover the board with masking tape.. First it helps protect the board a bit if you happen to slip, but mainly it stops all the fine metal dust getting in to the wood grain which can be a real pain to get out.. Better to cover it.

VbvsqUV.jpg

 

Then you use your marker pen and go over the top of the frets.

5N2k779.jpg

 

Then you use a levelling beam, radius block or levelling file to go across the top of the frets.. Then what you want to see is all of the top of the frets have the marker rubbed off.. If you have some where it hasn't it means the fret is lower than the one either side so you keep going till its all off.

 

Beam

3RYnnK3.jpg

 

Fret levelling file

eQM90Q5.jpg

 

Here you can see the fret that's in the middle has all of the marker off.. The one on the far right for instance has none of it off.. When this is done you use the fret rocker to check that they are indeed all level.. You do this by rocking the tool over three frets. If it moves the middle fret is higher and needs work. (didn't take pics of that).

qmOX7g8.jpg

 

Then I use the bevelling file to get a nice angle on the fret ends

daO4FJv.jpg

 

6uxdPjN.jpg

 

Then the triangular file as a crowning tool.. At this point the frets are rounded.. What you do is use this tool to file the sides of the frets which ends up giving you a thin flat top.

AutYAQw.jpg

 

PvdPIgw.jpg

 

Continued below

Edited by Rabs
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So as you can see the frets are almost trapezoid shaped... The ends however are still fairly sharp.

7DH8imG.jpg

 

That's when you use the fret end file.. These files I use are cool.. One end is rounded so you never dig in to the fretboard.

suKfNy9.jpg

 

It just takes a few swipes on each end and side of the fret.. Doesn't really take long.. The idea is you just want to round the very edges over

xbvLtSz.jpg

 

D8mgGOR.jpg

 

Then when that's all done.. The frets will be fairly scratched up at this point. So I use the radius block on the tops just to get rid of those scratches. Go through 240, 400, 600, 800 and 1200 sandpaper. Doesn't take much of each.. Just a minute or so with each grade.

l6du4pi.jpg

 

Then I spend some time going over the whole thing just with sandpaper in my hand just to get all the edges.. theres lots of different techniques for this.

 

Then when I am happy its scratch free (you don't really need to do this) I use a dremel tool with some jewellers rouge which just gets them looking nice and tidy.

rpixbeO.jpg

 

tt6wJEq.jpg

 

And its all done....

 

This is why you put masking tape on.. Here you can see where a corner came loose.. Imagine that over the whole board. Not good

TDCch8T.jpg

 

Body is ready too.. Just did some buffing and polishing

7ZwWo7K.jpg

 

VgCNvN4.jpg

 

Tomorrow.. Unless something goes stupidly wrong I will be putting it all together. :) [thumbup]

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Having played several Rabswoods....

I can attest that the fretting and fret finish is superb.

 

Looking good, glad to see you are back at it.

 

[thumbup] [thumbup]

Cheers man.. It feels good and right to be back at it [thumbup] BUT this show on Sunday may be a bit make or break for me.. We will see, fingers crossed :)

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Having played several Rabswoods....

I can attest that the fretting and fret finish is superb.

 

Looking good, glad to see you are back at it.

 

[thumbup] [thumbup]

Actually I will ask you and who ever else may want to answer..

 

Im not that happy with the headstock logo.. Its bubbled up in one corner (which has never happened before)..

 

Apparently tomorrow I am having some of my usual logos delivered.. Im not sure if I should change it at this stage. It will take a couple of days to do and cover with a few layers of oil.. Which means I will be finishing on Saturday (if all goes well) and then showing it Sunday.

 

I just worry about finishing it so soon before showing it.. Not sure what to do?

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Cheers man.. It feels good and right to be back at it [thumbup] BUT this show on Sunday may be a bit make or break for me.. We will see, fingers crossed :)

 

 

Looking awesome, thanks for the pics and tutorial and I've got my fingers crossed for 'make it'! And I don't know the story behind getting here, but I say screw make it or break it... just keep moving forward.

Edited by billroy
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Both good and bad news....

 

Good news is that my logos turned up and although it put me behind a bit I had to change it..

 

New logos :)

b6z8QYY.jpg

 

Bad news is that I put it mostly together (all but the tuners) and the bridge pickup isn't working :o AHHhhhhh! In looking at the pics I can see one thing I have done differently to usual but am not sure if this is the cause.. I will try tomorrow.. If its just not working I may have to go buy a new one if I can find one locally tomorrow afternoon..

 

Anyhooo....

 

So off with the crappy logo

ixTKBNk.jpg

 

And on with the proper one.. SOOOOooo much better :) Seriously.. The quality of these decals is so much better.. Goes on much easier.

MqFpSXN.jpg

 

UhrHj4j.jpg

 

Then I did the shielding.. Easy enough :) And the ground wire for the bridge.

ZlkhuL2.jpg

 

OzRTRCI.jpg?1

 

07B3Isn.jpg

 

Then in with the wiring

eETBo35.jpg?1

 

Then the jack plate.. I tighten my nuts up with a socket wrench bit..

vIX4YQS.jpg

 

n8BB4Z2.jpg

 

More below

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Then on with most of the hardware

qRJzTIk.jpg

 

aTLzDKN.jpg

 

gIuRnNw.jpg

 

And just did some double checking on the string path

dGus9rB.jpg

 

9Dc6sYy.jpg

 

So almost there if I can sort the pickup issue out.

qIqzNsZ.jpg

 

So finishing day will now hopefully be done tomorrow.. If not I may take it to show it off anyway and just pretend its already sold or something :D

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Bummer on the p'up, hope it's a quick job to track down the issue. No label looks awesome, good call. Get that bad boy finished and go make a statement!

Yes I am glad I changed it too.. :)

 

Soooo.. Its all finished.. I got the pickup working (YAY).. Needed to put a new capacitor on which has never happened before but whatever, its working now AND I even made a small clip for you.. Just keep in mind that its only my crappy solid state amp I use just to test its working.. And its just recorded through my phone so not really a good sound test.. Just wanted to show it playing [thumbup]

 

But before that heres the obligatory finished shots.

 

xHKhj34.jpg

 

ACObQtx.jpg

 

uSOJY3O.jpg

 

N5zgT42.jpg

 

lfAJHp0.jpg

 

ytwB7Iy.jpg

 

hgaVzS1.jpg

 

AND heres the quick clip... Also it was not comfortable for me at the moment as I burned my finger and thumb on Friday,

Wi3w0ES.jpg

 

Anyway.. For what its worth

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  • 2 weeks later...

This was the very beginning (bits and pieces hoping to make some tools)

 

j36fcxo.jpg?1

 

 

This is where I've gotten to

(Fret leveler / sanding beam, fret edge and edge bevel files, temporary fretboard radius gage)

 

EWGrZoi.jpg?1

 

Still working on fretboard radius sanding block, then think I'll have to bite the bullet and buy real fret radius gage, slotted ruler, fret saw and fret rocker but that's not too bad considering...

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This was the very beginning (bits and pieces hoping to make some tools)

 

j36fcxo.jpg?1

 

 

This is where I've gotten to

(Fret leveler / sanding beam, fret edge and edge bevel files, temporary fretboard radius gage)

 

EWGrZoi.jpg?1

 

Still working on fretboard radius sanding block, then think I'll have to bite the bullet and buy real fret radius gage, slotted ruler, fret saw and fret rocker but that's not too bad considering...

 

 

 

yes fret rockers are very good tools. Now I do not take and build guitars but have had my share of working on them. There is one seller on ebay that sells guitar tools at a decent price. I got my fret rocker from him several years back. Also along with some radius gauges get you some of those little fret protectors for filing one fret at a time. They just a little piece of metal with a slot cut into it for spot leveling one fret at a time. I have a few and one will last a very long time. And I also have a fingertip sander. It is made of hard rubber and has like a 3/16" or so inch wide belt type sanding surface. They are very useful too and are pretty good on the wallet as well. Harbor freight even sells them a good price. Here is a link to that little sander

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fret-Dressing-Crowning-Sanding-File-Stick-Kit-1-with-4-belt-Luthier-tool-MI-USA/142658504072?hash=item21371c0588:g:ta4AAOSw1DtXLleH:sc:USPSFirstClass!37055!US!-1

 

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That sanding tool is fancy! I've got a file to get me started, but this has definitely made the wish list. I'm looking at fret saws, do I need a miter box, or is it easy enough to cut the fret slots using a speed square or something?

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That sanding tool is fancy! I've got a file to get me started, but this has definitely made the wish list. I'm looking at fret saws, do I need a miter box, or is it easy enough to cut the fret slots using a speed square or something?

I would get a pre slotted one unless you maybe plan on making loads of guitars.. Even if you do, like me, I still buy them pre-slotted.. Much easier :) (well unless you specifically want to do every part of the build yourself which I get).

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Grade-Ebony-Slotted-Fingerboard-Fretboard-for-Guitar-25-4-Scale/382754461518?hash=item591df1974e:g:DqwAAOSw7MNcPPuc

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Fret-Hard-Maple-Slotted-Fretboard-Blank-25-5-Scale-Fret-Finger-Board/132893343649?hash=item1ef10f7fa1:g:w8oAAOSw61dbtQRv

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I would get a pre slotted one unless you maybe plan on making loads of guitars.. Even if you do, like me, I still buy them pre-slotted.. Much easier :) (well unless you specifically want to do every part of the build yourself which I get).

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Grade-Ebony-Slotted-Fingerboard-Fretboard-for-Guitar-25-4-Scale/382754461518?hash=item591df1974e:g:DqwAAOSw7MNcPPuc

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22-Fret-Hard-Maple-Slotted-Fretboard-Blank-25-5-Scale-Fret-Finger-Board/132893343649?hash=item1ef10f7fa1:g:w8oAAOSw61dbtQRv

 

I do want to give it a try to make everything from scratch, but a pre radiused slotted fretboard does take a lot of new step out. Even if I did go with pre slotted though - I thought I heard you probably will need a fret saw anyways to make the slots deeper, does that sound right?

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I do want to give it a try to make everything from scratch, but a pre radiused slotted fretboard does take a lot of new step out. Even if I did go with pre slotted though - I thought I heard you probably will need a fret saw anyways to make the slots deeper, does that sound right?

Yes.. probably.. After you radius it the slots need deepening as you have taken a couple of mm off the top. Well that's usually what happens with me..

 

And yes its right to see this as a bunch of steps or processes.. That's exactly what it is, if you can avoid one or two of them by spending a few more bucks, theres no shame in that at all.. In fact at the show I did, I was talking to another luthier who came to look at my work. He says he no longer bothers making necks at all and orders them from China at £40 a pop, which is pretty amazing. They come with a paddle headstock too so you can cut it to your own shape. Im not sure however if that includes inlays and frets...

 

And for someone like me who will make more than one or two, any step you can avoid in the process to make it more efficient is a good thing (and one less thing to go wrong (we all make mistakes, its knowing how to recover from them). So for me I think an Ebony blank is about £24 and a pre-slotted one is like £28.. So its a no brainer for me to spend the extra few quid, job done. Of course if things ever take off I will probably need the ability to cut my own slots (I did try it twice when I first started and wasted about £40 of rosewood :o ) and will get a proper mitre box and all that.. But for now im happy this way :)

Edited by Rabs
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