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1991 Nick Lucas


KTN

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This guitar has a very thick finish but beautiful maple. I'm thinking of stripping the burst and refinishing to natural.

Does anyone know if the burst was applied over the sealer or directly to the wood at that time?

Thanks, Kevin

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That takes brass balls, and aside from reducing it's market value (as you know), you'll likely slightly alter it's voice, hopefully not scarring the wood,  any rosette or binding. 
I've stripped a couple, bridge removed, happy with the results.

I'm probably wrong, but I assume the tint is is all encased in the finish, but you'll likely get to bare wood.  Mohawk finishing lacquers worked for me.

I hope someone who knows more chimes in.

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This is significantly more complex than stripping and re-finishing kitchen cabinets.  I'm guessing the 'sealer' is nitrocellulose.  Is it the burst stain that you feel is 'heavy' or the nitro - which is usually put on pretty thin?  In my very limited experience - removing stain in a piece of wood, usually requires removing the wood.    If I were me, I'd either bring it to a luthier and pay for a consult and a quote on what he'd do and how much he'd charge ...  OR  I'd go to a pawn shop and buy a Mexican Martin and let it serve as your guinea pig.  As JedZ noted, bridge, rosette, are issues - as are the binding around the face and around the fretboard.  Unless you view this as a fun project and have the tools and skills - it might be cheaper to sell/trade it for a guitar that has a natural maple finish. Oh - and I'm guessing the face is spruce, not maple.   Are you stripping the back and sides as well?  

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At one time Gibson did apply a spray lacquer over a shellac sealer.  But this was a short-lived transitional finish when Gibson was going from hand rubbed to fully sprayed finishes.  My 1932 L1 has this finish although the sprayed coat has virtually disappeared leaving only what is beneath the shellac sealer.  

The thing I would check is to make sure the guitar does not have a Fullerplast finish.  Reportedly this ended before 1991 when the the factory went into full operation.  But Gibson being Gibson and as things did not change at the stroke of midnight on Jan. 1, for grins I would still want to be sure.  I also do not know if Bozeman continued the practice of applying the final clearcoat over the pickguard.

While it is your guitar so you can do whatever you want to it, I leave anything and everything that has to do with finishes to the Pros from Dover.    I have seen more than my fair share of botched homespun jobs.

Edited by zombywoof
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Why do you think the finish is thick? Gibson does not typically apply overly-thick finishes. The exception might be the Fullerplast finishes from 1990 or so.

As has been stated, you will be seriously compromising the value of the guitar at the very least.

What exactly are you trying to achieve? You don't say that.

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If it’s a ‘91 it may well have the Fullerplast lacquer finish, which is why it appears heavier than Nitro. That stuff is complicated, difficult to remove and very hard to refinish. 
 

I would strongly advise to leave it alone and enjoy it as is, or if you’re absolutely set on refinishing it, take it to a high end luthier like Dan Erlewine to have it done properly. 

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Thanks. I sent the 91 back and got a killer y2k maple guitar. Awesome sound and action. Spoke with Ren and he was pretty stoked about the product they put out around that time. I think his own L00 is from 2001 or thereabouts. Thanks for all the replies. Kevin 

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I don’t understand that emoji. But I love the new guitar. It’s really loud by the way. Has 2 small cracks between the fretboard and sound hole which were cleated. Probably humidity related. Inconsequential in my opinion. Been looking for a long time for this. 

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