Bridge Shaving question

[vourot]

I'll make it quick, I have had my AJ for almost a year and I finally got tired of the high action, so I took it in for a set up. Nothing serious, just wanted the action lowered a tad, that sort of thing. Anyway, the guitar shop called me and they said that to get the action anywhere near ideal would require that the bridge be shaved. They mentioned something about the neck angle not being quite right and that it might be a warranty issue. Seems like a fairly big operation as I imagine they have to remove the bridge. Besides the high action the guitar sounds great and has never had problems with staying in tune. What to do? Any advice will be appreciated.

 

Thanks

[ballcorner]

Never shave the bridge.

 

If the guitar needs a neck reset, send it to Bozeman.

[ksdaddy]

With all due respect to the shop, bridge shaving should be reserved for $100 Chinese guitars that you want to peddle on craigslist or at the yard sale. Been there, done that, but never to a good guitar.

[Taylor Player]

This summer I took my 2005 AJ into my luthier/tech at the Podium in Minneapolis and told him I loved it but wanted the action lower like on my Taylor. It took him all of 5 minutes. All he did was file the nut a bit and turn the truss and it played very close to my Taylor. I keep light gauge Elixir strings on it and found it to be perfect. I would question your tech's response and have someone else take a look. All it could need is the nut slots lowered a tad. I would not shave the saddle on the bottom but my luthier/tech probably could have adjusted the top of the saddle if he thought it necessary. He didn't and I love the way it played after a good tech did his magic. If your guitar is only a year old, a neck reset is way premature unless it was off to start with. If that is the case, do what others have said and have Bozeman deal with it.

[vourot]

Thanks, for the quick replies, I just got of the phone with the shop. When I go pick up the guitar they want to explain and show me the neck issues so I know what to tell Gibson. As far as bridge shaving goes they said its so far out of whack that its the only thing they COULD do if they were to attempt it. Which they do not recommend. Needless to say I'm a little pissed off now. I hope there is no issues with the warranty. I bought it from guitar center in the states but I'm in Canada so I hope there are no problems.

[sumner77]

ballcorner and ksdaddy are exactly right. a shaved bridge is a temporary solution at best. If the shop is a Gibson shop it may go some ways to persuading Gibson to do the neck reset under warranty, but send it to Bozeman, for sure. A neck reset is not the end of the world. Martin recently reset the neck and replaced the frets on one of my guitars and it's like a new instrument. All under warranty. Please let us know the details about what is done eventually, and whether Gibson does it under warranty.

[nolongermike@gibson]

Mine guitar is too young to shave.

[geelinus]

I'd take the guitar to a Gibson authorized repair shop and let them look at it. My guess is that shaving the bridge will probably void your warranty

[Hoss]

If you succumb to shaving your bridge, you've just created another repair down the road. Except you will have to replace the bridge or make a new one. So you've created two or three repairs all on your own.

 

I've just had the pleasure of paying a master luthier $$$ to build a new vintage style bridge because someone took the shaving approach. True, the new bridge is from a piece of beautiful brazilian rosewood, but it certainly would be cool to have the original still on the guitar!

[modoc_333]

i think i'm liking your shop. if they are a good shop, and qualified to do the work...... well, they aren't trying to take your money. it sounds like it really does need a neck reset. hopefully the big G will help you out.

 

 

of course, i must add that if you are trying to get it to play like an electric guitar, then you will be out of luck. acoustics should be just a touch high so they will play and sound correctly. if you are trying to go too low for a reasonable acoustic, then gibson probably won't help you.

[albertjohn]

Is the bridge Brazilian Rosewood?

[jefleppard]

Is the bridge Brazilian Rosewood?

 

in that case, there is no bridge at all.

[ksdaddy]

I don't know what I used on that '57 J45; the lumber I made it from was sold to me as Indian Rosewood but God knows.

 

[vourot]

Nah, I'm not trying to get it play like an electric, its been 10 months since I bought it and I have not taken it anywhere for any kind of work. When I get it back I will post a picture of the action to let you guys have a look. Like I said, it stays in tune and sounds great as is. It was news to me that it has "issues". I am slightly concerned about Gibson and any warranty work. I bought the guitar at a GC in kirkland washington and dealt with a manager who didn't even know it came with a case. Also, the checklist warranty card had a different serial number than the one on the actual guitar.I made mention of that when I registered it with Gibson. We'll see what happens. Again, thanks for all the replies.

 

Paul

[EScottG]

Hey Paul, it sounds like you were playing and enjoying the guitar right up until the time you took it into the shop? If you bought it new 10 months ago and the saddle has never been lowered, then it certainly seems it should be possible to get better action- and maybe even an action that's acceptable to you- just from simply lowering your saddle. I mean, it wasn't unplayable before you took it in. So unless it came from the factory with a REALLY low saddle, it seems to me you should have room for some adjustment. Not saying you shouldn't trust your shop or anything like that, it just seems curious to me. good luck with everything

 

Scott

[onewilyfool]

Bridge shaving is canabalistic.......the bridge should NEVER be shaved......if the bridge gets shaved, then you need a neck reset AND a new bridge down the line..........I'm amazed that any reputable repair person would recommend this.....

[brians356]

Ok, let's get down to "bwass tacks." I'll ask you what I ask any owner selling a guitar, when I can't inspect it in person: Slap a capo on the first fret, then measure the string height (bottom of string to top of fret) at the 13th fret for both E strings, either in 1/64th inches or nearest "half 1/32nd" inches. Then measure (in the same units) the bone saddle protruding from the bridge under both E strings. Finally, with capo on first fret, hold down both E strings (one at a time) at the 15th fret, and measure or estimate the relief (gap under) for both E strings at the 7th or 8th fret.

 

With these measurements, one can make a pretty accurate estimation of the disposition of the neck. After you post the numbers, we'll discuss them. Brian

[TommyK]

Just so we all understand the terminology The saddle is the white-ish part the strings bend over before heading to the nut. The bridge is the wood piece that surrounds and holds the saddle. The bridge also has the pin holes in it.

 

Bridge shaving is a major undertaking that can make a cheap guitar more playable if action is high. Bridge shaving will reduce the value of a top of the line guitar.

 

The saddle can be shaved on any guitar without detracting from the value of any guitar, as long as it isn' over done. If so a saddle can be replaced and not affect the value of any instrument.

 

Hugemongously high action on a cheap pac-rim guit tar can be reduced by severely shaving a saddle, which may require shaving the bridge. But as bridge shaving is a hugemongous undertaking.. read expensive, it isn't advised on a cheap guitar either.

[brians356]

Tommy, you're right of course, and now I realize I was thinking "inside the box" since he used the word "bridge" when, after reviewing this thread afresh, I'm betting what the luthier either said or meant to say was the "saddle" needed to be shaved. (Since this is a practically new Gibson, and has been playing well, it doesn't make sense that it suddenly needs a neck reset.) Still, I'm curious to see the action metrics I asked him before earlier, so we can really "see" what he has, and discuss.

[vourot]

I'll be picking it up tomorrow, and I'll do those measurements and post some numbers. I'll also get the complete story on these neck "issues".

[Gman]

You can take the saddle down from the top or bottom. The bridge has to be taken from the top unless it's already off the guitar.I've seen a few newer AJs that needed neck resets mine is one and it is a warranty issue

[Thermionik]

Shaving the bridge to sort out poor action because of a neck problem.

 

It's like.....

 

Shaving your chin to sort out a sore neck after a a whiplash injury.

[vourot]

Ok, so I went to get my guitar and talked to the tech for about 45 minutes.I asked some questions and he told me some answers.Did he know what he was talking about? I think so, he did say he could get the action almost to where he wanted it but not quite. He is adamant that my AJ needs a neck reset, but I'm not so sure. What I think it comes down to is that A.) He has never ,nor had anyone else in the shop seen a Gibson AJ before ( they are a rare bird in these parts ) B.) I am completely sure that he was perplexed by the bridge on my AJ ( it being thicker on the bass side and tapering towards the high E ) So I am going to another shop where I known they have or used to have a new AJ and a guy who works there who owns one. Then I at least can question him and compare my guitar to theirs if its still there. So as it stands I can get the action mostly to where I want it but the neck will still need a reset in the future ( according to the tech ) So hopefully a second opinion might help.Oh yeah I almost forgot, the tech said I should have bought a Collings. ( funny )

 

Here are some pics

[rar]

He is adamant that my AJ needs a neck reset' date=' but I'm not so sure. [/quote']

 

If the neck and top geometry are in the ballpark, it's not too hard to tell whether you need a neck reset. Find a nice straightedge around 18" long, lay it along the neck, and slide it bridge-ward until it reaches or is even with the front edge. If the straightedge winds up around the top of the bridge, your neck set is about right. If it hits around the bottom of the bridge, you definitely need a reset. If it's in the middle, you have a choice of highish action despite a low-as-possible saddle and a neck reset. (That initial caveat about geometry is important, though -- a swollen top due too much humidity, for example, can result in what looks like a need for a neck reset when what's really needed is some drying out.)

 

-- Bob R

[vourot]

I went and got a second opinion and I also had an opportunity to play an AJ that is set up properly with a good neck.Mine absolutely needs a neck reset. So lets hope Gibson stands behind their products.