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Best large or jumbo guitar for FINGERPICKING???


onewilyfool

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I play a lot of pre-war fingerstyle blues. I love fingerpicking on a J-45! I know the original blues guys tended to play small body guitars, like L-00s, but I like that the J-45 has more bass and a fuller overall sound. Also, I like mahogany for its clarity and focus on the fundamental notes. Rosewood has too many overtones for this style of fingerpicking and sound can get cloudy, so to speak.

 

J-45 - Hey, if it's good enough for Lightnin' Hopkins, it's good enough for me!

 

Now, for other styles of fingerpicked music, you may prefer rosewood over mahogany.

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I bought my Southern Jumbo, because all the samples and recordings I heard suggested that a mahogany slopeshoulder would be a fine all-rounder for somebody who mainly fingerpicks solo, but likes to break out the flatpick and strum as well. My favourite sample for tone happens to be a Woody Guthrie flatpicked, but it was hearing John Thomas's vintage SJ fingerpicked and Robi Johns playing classical on a new J45 Standard which really convinced me. My own WG more than lives up to my expectations as a flatpicker, strummer and above all as a fingerpicker. When I was buying I didn't expect to play much blues on it, as I like a bit more treble bite for fingerpicking in that area, but it delivers what I wanted for old-time country, jazz, various shades of folk and the occasional classical piece. If I want to play blues, I'm more than happy to dig out my beater, and when that dies I'll look to buy something cheap and smaller bodied for that purpose. That said, when the SJ was strung with a medium 1st string and all other strings from a light medium set, it really did do blues pretty well too. So I know where GTS is coming from.

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Yamaha's LL26 and 36 do a wonderful job for finger picking, a nice top end with a clean clear bass. If you were to go into a proper jumbo sized guitar though I'd have to say the Guild F-512 I played recently, made my hack job version of Last Steam Engine Train sound wonderful.

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Tricky.....

 

 

Any guitar can be fingerpicked

 

 

BUT

 

 

If you want a top-driven sound like a lot of blues fingerpickers, you will need to work really hard to drive the top of a dreadnought or even a jumbo, which is one of the reasons fingerpickers normally like smaller guitars. Fingerpicks would help. A J45 is borderline because it does have its own baseline (growly, throaty Gibson sound). To an electric guitarist, this is the sound as the tube amp distortion just kicks in gently.....

 

 

BluesKing777.

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ZW, with respect, says nut width. For me, balance. Ideally, you want to hear the bass line and the treble both ring clear. In that respect, maple and hog serve well; with rosewood, you have more low end rumble and sustain. An exception: the Martin M-series (shallow box dials back the bass/sustain). As for the shape of the box, the right hand reach around tends harder on a square D-box, unless you come in a size long and tall.

 

David Bromberg, Maple Leaf Rag (Martin M42)

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Tonight - Played Me and the Devil Blues on a pre-Gibson Epi jumbo. Switched over to a Harmony Sovereign for Tommy Johnson's Big Road Blues. Then broke out my old J-200 for Bessie's Electric Chair Blues. Lawdy, though, I could not pick a winner out of the bunch if I tried.

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Tricky.....

 

 

Any guitar can be fingerpicked

 

 

BUT

 

 

If you want a top-driven sound like a lot of blues fingerpickers, you will need to work really hard to drive the top of a dreadnought or even a jumbo, which is one of the reasons fingerpickers normally like smaller guitars. Fingerpicks would help. A J45 is borderline because it does have its own baseline (growly, throaty Gibson sound). To an electric guitarist, this is the sound as the tube amp distortion just kicks in gently.....

 

 

BluesKing777.

 

here he comes again with his stupid questions ......

 

BK , can you tell me what you mean by 'driving the top ' ? is it easier to 'drive the top' of a small guitar or a big one ?

i just dont know what that expression refers to ?

thanks

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I think it means 'giving the top a good shake' to get the vibration you want from the top to get the fingerpicking tone one ddesire. With the smaller mass of the top it argouably it is easier to 'drive the top'.

 

Of course, my explanation could all be bollocks also ...

 

here he comes again with his stupid questions ......

 

BK , can you tell me what you mean by 'driving the top ' ? is it easier to 'drive the top' of a small guitar or a big one ?

i just dont know what that expression refers to ?

thanks

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I think it means 'giving the top a good shake' to get the vibration you want from the top to get the fingerpicking tone one ddesire. With the smaller mass of the top it argouably it is easier to 'drive the top'.

 

Of course, my explanation could all be bollocks also ...

 

 

 

 

Thanks EA - just what I meant!

 

 

I like a Blues King L-00 or a LG size guitar for those reasons mentioned above. After a few years of practice, I can get the top on my Blues King or my LG3 'humming' along with my bare fingers. It is a touch of distortion. I have to play harder to get my J45 to get this sound, while my Martins will give me a few blisters before this will happen. (000-15 mahogany top is a different story).

Gary Davis above can get his J200 buzzing, but he also is a different story! He has very strong right hand and very strong left hand fingers like pistons.

 

My Metal skin Dobro is another example - I can play quite softly and still get the Dobro 'reso' sound.

 

I can only say that it is a bit like playing both a Stratocaster and a Les Paul throught the same amp with the same settings - the LP has a 'baseline growly sound' while the Strat is very clean and has to be worked very hard to get a sound like the LP. Phew???

 

 

I suppose the best way to demonstrate is for someone (else) to play a row of guitars with the same left hand force and record the process. I don't have the time at the moment, sorry!

 

 

 

BluesKing777.

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I think it means 'giving the top a good shake' to get the vibration you want from the top to get the fingerpicking tone one ddesire. With the smaller mass of the top it argouably it is easier to 'drive the top'.

 

Of course, my explanation could all be bollocks also ...

 

lol

well ... thats kinda what i thought, but my head seems to think that a large top would be easier , less effort , i dunno :-s

small guitar - quieter ... jumbo guitar - louder

is how it is in my head , but just like you say , sometimes my head just talks bollocks

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lol my head seems to think that a large top would be easier , less effort
Simple physics. The bigger the top area relative to the bridge, the more attack needed for the bridge to get the top moving. So an OM or and LOO can get moving with a light touch. Even without picks and with light strings. Whereas with a J200, it takes a stronger attack, picks, and heavier strings to get the sound out. Which is what Gary Davis did with his J200s.
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Simple physics. The bigger the top area relative to the bridge, the more attack needed for the bridge to get the top moving. So an OM or and LOO can get moving with a light touch. Even without picks and with light strings. Whereas with a J200, it takes a stronger attack, picks, and heavier strings to get the sound out. Which is what Gary Davis did with his J200s.

 

so a small guitar makes less noise but its easy to get noise from it, but a larger guitar is harder to get noise but its louder when you do get noise ?

 

that makes no sense to me at all , but then again, i was rubbish at physics at school :-D

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so a small guitar makes less noise but its easy to get noise from it, but a larger guitar is harder to get noise but its louder when you do get noise ?

. Sure. Small top area= easier to get vibrating (rh attack) but the small body cavity limits output. Jumbos and dreads and dread get more air moving but need more attack/bigger string/picks to get the most out of them. Similar principle on resophonic guitars: the cone moves a lot of air but to get the cone to move , a bigger string and picks are needed.
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A lot of finger pickers also prefer a wider string spread at the bridge - 2 5/16" minimum. Check it out in the guitars you are trying to see what the measurement is.

 

 

That can be hard to find in modern Gibsons, which almost all use the "Gibson standard" 2 1/8" pin spacing. I have two candidates for my "now or never" efforts at learning how to fingerpick properly: my 000-28 EC, and my L-OO Legend. They are chalk and cheese both sonically and playing-wise, but both are 1 3/4" at the nut. The Gibby is 2 3/8" pin spacing at the bridge, and the Martin 2 1/4". Both are light years different from my J-45 playing-wise.

 

I greatly admire anyone who uses a J-45 as their primary finger-picking guitar. As someone famously said, "it ain't me, babe....."

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