Does me SJ need a neck reset already?

[Kylef]

I custom ordered my SJ 2 years ago an d love it. However, after sitting out in my guitar room for a few months I noticed the action was raised a fair. It. I out it down to the guitar breaking in being new.

 

There was a good bit on the saddle, so I sanded it down to basically as far as it would go without going too far, but it's not enough. The action is probably 20% higher than what I'd like it! but then how do I get it further down without going on to modify the bridge etc? I'm dreading hearing the words 'neck reset'.

 

Opinions?

[jannusguy2]

Take it to a pro without delay. If you're the original owner and a neck reset is needed it should be covered in the warranty. Don't do any more mods to it.

[rar]

Take it to a pro ...

+1 By far the most frequent cause of what you're seeing is overhumidification, but it could be a lot of different things. Getting an accurate diagnosis of the problem is the first order of business.

 

-- Bob R

[Jeremy Morton]

+1 By far the most frequent cause of what you're seeing is overhumidification, but it could be a lot of different things. Getting an accurate diagnosis of the problem is the first order of business.

 

-- Bob R

 

Over Humidification is often what causes this. It will raise the action. What is the relative humidity in your area?

[zombywoof]

I view neck resets like replacing the #3 cylinder in a VW Bus, it is inevitable.

 

It is my understanding that Gibson's warranty does not cover neck resets unless the problem is a result of a manufacturing defect.

[GDC]

My J-200 had to have the saddle set that low to accomplish a good action. Kinda worries me. If yours was better than that just a few months ago and changed dramatically over a couple months, I'd suspect over humidification, too. With a guitar that nice, you need a hygrometer living next to it. Or maybe you do?

[jannusguy2]

 

 

It is my understanding that Gibson's warranty does not cover neck resets unless the problem is a result of a manufacturing defect.

 

Ouch! I had no idea!. That sucks if that's the case. As a matter of fact, when I read this post I went to check my paperwork to be certain I had registered my J200 TV's warranty. (I had)

[Kylef]

I also think its a case of being overhumidified. I'm kicking myself for not storing it in its case instead of out on a stand.

 

What's the reverse process of this? Is it treatable?

[littlejohnny]

Overhumidification will cause the flattop (which by the way is never totally flat) to belly up around the bridge.

Check the humidity in your room. If its over 55% put the guitar back in its case. But you should also check the humidity in the case. Some times of the year its so humid in my area, that even the case is overhumidtfied. If thats the case, this product helps: http://www.bgwguitars.com/data/acczorbit.htm

 

The belly will disappear when the guitar is stored correct. This will take about a few days up a few weeks, depending on how much humidity your guitar was exposed to.

If Humidity is not the issue, check the neck relief an tweak the trussrod if necessary. If your not familiar with how the trussrod works, have a tech take a look at the guitar.

[Dave F]

Just find someplace dry and leave it there for a few months.

If that's not possible get something to absorb the moisture and keep it in its case. I started using Humidipaks. There have been other suggestions on the forum such as silica paks. It will not be an overnight fix

[Kylef]

Thing is it's been like this for a while. I've stored it case for a couple of months, it's had a day here and there in a room with a dehumidifier, sometimes in its case near a radiator, with no movement. I had it a few weeks in its case with a couple of silica packs aswell. Might be worth trying the humidipaks.

 

It's a strange one, it did get humid in the room at one point when I didn't notice, but I'd have thought it would have dried out by now.

[Dave F]

Thing is it's been like this for a while. I've stored it case for a couple of months, it's had a day here and there in a room with a dehumidifier, sometimes in its case near a radiator, with no movement. I had it a few weeks in its case with a couple of silica packs aswell. Might be worth trying the humidipaks.

 

It's a strange one, it did get humid in the room at one point when I didn't notice, but I'd have thought it would have dried out by now.

I have quite a few guitars but I am only fighting this same problem on a couple of them. One ovation I had was so bad I got rid of it

[zombywoof]

Ouch! I had no idea!. That sucks if that's the case. As a matter of fact, when I read this post I went to check my paperwork to be certain I had registered my J200 TV's warranty. (I had)

 

 

I want to say the warranty specificaly states it does not cover damage caused by extremes in temperatire or humidity.

[GDC]

About the only way to deal with humidity is to first know what it is. Get a hygrometer. If your humidity is under about 45 very much, then you'll need a method of humidifying either the room or the guitar. If it's over 55/60 very much, you'll need a room dehumidifier. It'll take storage in a proper temperature/humidity environment for about two-three weeks for the guitar to stabilize at the proper form.

 

Get a hygrometer and determine what your environment is before you ruin that guitar. It might need a neck reset; but, it's probably over humidification. I wouldn't guess when it comes to treating a $3500 guitar - I'd buy a $20 hygrometer and find out for certain, then take the appropriate action based on known facts.

 

Check out this article:

 

http://www.lakewood.de/en/tip1.php

 

Then buy this:

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=28957076

 

Then buy this:

 

http://www.sears.ca/product/kenmore-md-454l-console-humidifier/642-000017871-758_3_299740C?extid=_ca_Community_en_bazaarvoice_QA_PSVP_642-000017871-758_3_299740C_Humidifiers

 

AND OR This

 

http://www.sears.ca/stores/shop/search?langId=1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10001&N=0&Ntk=level1&Ntt=dehumidifier&Nty=1&D=dehumidifier&Ntx=mode+matchall&Dx=mode+matchall&initialquery=true&internalSearch=true

 

Figure out how to get your room's humidity to a fairly constant 45-50% humidity at 70 degrees F. Keept it there and the guitar will regain it's proper shape in due time.

[rar]

About the only way to deal with humidity is to first know what it is. Get a hygrometer. ...

Just wanted to add that many digital hygrometers are extremely inaccurate. They vary markedly from one instance to the next, and buying one that's more expensive is no guarantee of accuracy (though it seems to improves the odds). It's not that unusual to get one that reads 50% when the relative humidity is actually 70%, or one that reads 70% when the humidity is actually 50%. So, be sure and test your new hygrometer (ideally, by comparison to another hygrometer you have good reason to believe to be accurate or, if no reference instrument is available, by using the salt test)!

 

-- Bob R

[chasAK]

Bob R, what is the salt test and is it easy to do?

 

Charlie

 

[Fullmental Alpinist]

Salt Test:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pk7j_Y6XaIk&list=PL04A31A05148B157D

 

FMA

[Murph]

Might be a bit of a belly, might be your imagination.

 

FROM THE PICTURES it doesn't look like it needs a neck re-set.

[Sitedrifter]

Don't bother with the salt test to calibrate your hygrometer because you are calibrating it at 75% humidity. Your unit at a lower humidity level could still be off (mine were.) Best bet is to use the Boveda 49% humidipak. This will give you 49% RH in a small closed container and is the best bet to calibrate your hygrometer.

[88mmll]

When re-acclimating the guitar in its case use light string only. Or Tune down to Eb.

I am 58 and have had 20 acoustics. It seems the cheaper Asian and Canadian guit-fiddles I have had( and still have, Blueridge, Gretsch Rancher Jr. and Eastman ) have dead straight necks and electric guitar action that doesn't change. On the other hand I have a Martin CS from this year that is back at the shop for some work. I have sold Colling's that have the fretboard sinking into the body the last 7 frets. Same with Santa Cruz. I have my Yong monkeypod guitar in for a reset now and it is a great design with 3 bolts. A 80$ reset with shims. Taylors have this too.

I have also sold my 2003 J45 that had some humidity issues. I live in a good area the coast of Santa Barbara which has a fairly benign humidity and year round temperature. I also use light gauge strings, except on my Eastman which is strong and can take mediums.

 

I hope you get back your preffered neck angle and the top returns to designed spec. There are some luthiers that can use clamps and overnight your neck straight if that's the problem. But it seems that your top is light and has moved.

Warranty is a good thing. Get that beauty back to your low action. You'll use the guitar more.

 

Great guitars have light and stiff tops.....Once they are chosen for a build they must hold out and some of them with weather and string tension will belly and or lift.

[rar]

Best bet is to use the Boveda 49% humidipak

Great idea! (Just to save other folks some Googling, these are the same as the Planet Waves humidipaks -- Boveda is the brand name used by the manufacturer.)

 

-- Bob R

[Fullmental Alpinist]

And to save even more Googling, here's the website for Humidipak which is now known as Boveda:

 

Boveda Pak

 

FMA

[Kylef]

Weirdest thing...so I had a gig last night, so I decided to restring the guitar a during the day yesterday.

 

I used to use 11's when I first got the guitar, but when I had a studio session booked in earlier this year, I switched to 12's to get that big jumbo sound. It wasn't long after this it developed a high action, but I know this could have been partly down to the humidity in the summer.

 

Sometimes I play 3 hour acoustic sets on my own, and I have found myself reaching for my backup epiphone rather than my gibson, as the Epiphone has 11's and the Gibsons 12's would give me sore fingers eventually.

 

So I decided instead of using the 12's, I got myself a couple of sets of Gibson masterbuilt 11's again like I used to use. Well the action has dropped about a couple of mm's or so. Once the 11's were on, I adjusted the truss rod to suit, and it feels and looks a lot better than it did. I'm guessing the tension between the 12's and 11's has let the neck relax a bit.

 

I'm not saying the guitars rid of its problems, but the action as it is can't really go any lower otherwise it will be touching my LR Baggs M1A's polo pieces when I use it, so I'm fairly happy with it now. What a difference in sound aswell.

 

I'm going to get a dehumidifier to keep a steady 45-55% humidity in the room and leave the guitar out in the room! and we'll see how it goes from there.

[beegsmudge]

Hi,

 

i've had a similar experience with my J200. Can i assume that as this is an old post that the issue corrected itself or did you take any further steps?

[sbpark]

I custom ordered my SJ 2 years ago an d love it. However, after sitting out in my guitar room for a few months I noticed the action was raised a fair. It. I out it down to the guitar breaking in being new.

 

There was a good bit on the saddle, so I sanded it down to basically as far as it would go without going too far, but it's not enough. The action is probably 20% higher than what I'd like it! but then how do I get it further down without going on to modify the bridge etc? I'm dreading hearing the words 'neck reset'.

 

Opinions?

 

With all due respect, take it to someone if you don't understand how to set it up properly. You haven't even mentioned addressing the relief or what the relief of the guitar is. You may not even have needed to sand down the saddle as you already did. Lots of times it's the weather/changes in climate and humidity that affect this, and if you lied the way it was set up before, something as simple as a quick truss rod tweak will fix the issue you're having if there's too much relief.