Truss rod adjustment tips please

[Nic LP]

Hi everyone.

 

I just put 0.095 strings on my '93 Les Paul Standard, I had 0.09 before. Then, my strings are too high and I want to ajust the truss rod so the strings would get nearer to the fretboard.

 

My question : should I screw or unsrew to have the strings lower.

 

Thanks !

[Geert1976]

the thickness off the strings nearly changed, keep your hands off the trusrod.

 

Put your bridge lower, als low as you can go, until you get fretbuzz and then put it a bit higher so the fretbuzz is gone for 90%, the rest off the buzz will be gone after a week of playing.

[Xinnix]

the thickness off the strings nearly changed' date=' keep your hands off the trusrod.

 

Put your bridge lower, als low as you can go, until you get fretbuzz and then put it a bit higher so the fretbuzz is gone for 90%, the rest off the buzz will be gone after a week of playing.[/quote']

 

 

+100%

If you're asking, then you shouldn't be messing with it!

I agree, play with the bridge and if you think the TR needs adjusted then take it to a guitar tech.

[NeoConMan]

LEAVE THE TRUSS ROD ALONE!

 

90% of the time, the truss rod does NOT need to be adjusted.

You can make plenty of adjustments to the bridge to zero in on the height you like first.

 

If it needs it, then take it to a good luthier - see if you can find a Gibson-authorized service center in your area.

Don't just let some Guitar Center dipsh!t twist on it and take $50 from you.

 

 

Additionally, when you changed the strings did you allow the thumbwheels under the bridge to turn any?

Happens all the time if you aren't careful, then you think something is wrong with the guitar.

 

If it was okay before the string change, the truss rod is where it needs to be.

[Geert1976]

I repair guitars for a time now, en there are still idiots fooling around with the truss rod en when they made a mess off it i have to fix it.

 

The neck off a gibson is like the feelings off a women...... very very sensitive, so, keep your hands off it

[Eracer_Team]

to check the neck.. (must be done in playing position)

 

-put a capo on the first fret

-then hold down the High E at the 14th fret.

-take a small square of computer printer paper (this is about .004 of an inch thick)

-slide the small piece of paper under the high E string at the 7th fret.... it should slide in and stay but not too tight (loose and it will fall out)

 

if you can do this, your neck is fine..

if it isn't take it to the shop for adjustment... neck relief is not about string height

[Townes]

You should learn how to work on your guitars. That way you can hang on to your hard earned money, and you avoid the risk of leaving your guitar in the shop. Get Dan Erlewines book or theres lots of websites, like this one

 

 

Electric guitar setup

 

good luck

[loneguitar]

+1 Rule of thumb - If you have to ask you shouldn't be messing with it.

[dleth]

+1 Rule of thumb - If you have to ask you shouldn't be messing with it.

 

I can't agree with this statement. If you don't ask and research, how can you learn?

 

I posted questions to this and other forums and bought a good book (Dan Erlewine)before starting to work on my guitars myself. I experimented on my new Les Paul until I could dial it right in where I like it. Unless something drastic happens, no more guitar shop for my electrics.

 

There is some fantastic advice and a wealth of knowledge and experience on this forum. Many thanks to those who like to share their knowledge with the beginners.

[tbonesullivan]

I'd say, best tip is to take it to a tech. Unless you actually know what you are doing, don't touch that truss rod.

 

Also, "factory" Gibson setup is actually relief around .012 inches. Dan Erlewine recommends .004 inches.

[Xinnix]

I can't agree with this statement. If you don't ask and research' date=' how can you learn?[/quote']

 

Hmm, Well he changed the strings and thought he could lower them by bowing the neck!

Doesn't sound like he did much research? Clearly, this person is a novice and has been given the best advise here.

 

You may not agree, but know one here is telling him not to ask questions.

I agree that asking questions and doing researching is great if you want to do it yourself.

You apparently did and even bought a book. But before that, did you start by wrenching on your truss rod first?

I'm hoping I can say, "I doubt it"

 

In this case, he was ready to turn the wrench without any research.

The fact that his question was in regards to the direction he should turn clearly told everyone here

that he is about to jack his guitar up.

 

So IMHO, And others here, If your asking which way to turn the "truss rod", then you are no were near qualified

and you should either take it to a guitar tech or STOP, and do some research and ask questions.

Then proceed with caution[cool]

[dleth]

Point well taken Xinnix.

 

I was indeed cautious and did my research BEFORE messing with anything. Truss rod especially. The last thing I wanted to do was damage my new guitar. I still encourage people to learn about their instrument and ask questions if in doubt. In fact it took me about 4 hours to adjust the intonation the first time as I was being a weeny with my adjustments. Now its a 20 minute job at most. I haven't had to adjust the truss rod at all. Experimenting with various settings was fun though and a little scary at first but I've learned a lot and gained a lot of confidence too.

If something is out of my league, I'll bring the axe into a professional...grudgingly. My last experience ended well but my 30+ year old MIJ Les Paul (original owner)was gone for almost 7 weeks and cost about $700. The result is awesome and worth the cost as it got me back into playing and led to me buying my first Gibson. Now I want more.

Dave

[Lowdown]

+1 Rule of thumb - If you have to ask you shouldn't be messing with it.

 

If you feel you have to post inane' date='unhelpful responses like that...please don't bother in future.

You are not helping anyone.

Thanx.

[tulsaslim]

The best compromise is to leave your 'gamers' in the hands of experienced professionals but get a couple of Asian-made clunkers to practice your luthier skills on. That way you won't screw up your good one because you don't know what you're doing but you'll still have something with which to improve your skills.

[deepblue]

Im getting braver as I get older. I dont mind tweaking my TR. Just remember, tiny turns. Even 1/4 of a turn is a huge adjustment.

[Nic LP]

You should learn how to work on your guitars. That way you can hang on to your hard earned money' date=' and you avoid the risk of leaving your guitar in the shop. Get Dan Erlewines book or theres lots of websites, like this one

 

 

Electric guitar setup

 

good luck

 

 

Exactly... I have 3 guitars now, so I figure I should know a little bite more about doing some adjustments myself, it's no rocket science right ! And I don't want to fell like I'm putting my luthier's kids to college...

[Nic LP]

Im getting braver as I get older. I dont mind tweaking my TR. Just remember' date=' tiny turns. Even 1/4 of a turn is a huge adjustment.[/quote']

 

Yeah, you're right, that's what he red somewhere...

 

Thanks.

[ShredAstaire]

I repair guitars for a time now' date=' en there are still idiots fooling around with the truss rod en when they made a mess off it i have to fix it.

[/quote']

 

 

Oh man, these idiots provide you with work to keep your job? Thats terrible.

[Nic LP]

I would like to take a moment to tell some guys here who are giving master classes to everyone and those who don't respond to the answers asked, by me or others : my question about the truss rod was posted after my luthier told me that it was the thing to do, I just forgot to ask him which way to do it... !

 

So I guess it would be pretty cool to answer politely to the questions asked on the site : guitar adjustment is no rocket science.

[Eracer_Team]

to check the neck.. (must be done in playing position)

 

-put a capo on the first fret

-then hold down the High E at the 14th fret.

-take a small square of computer printer paper (this is about .004 of an inch thick)

-slide the small piece of paper under the high E string at the 7th fret.... it should slide in and stay but not too tight (loose and it will fall out)

 

if you can do this' date=' your neck is fine..

if it isn't take it to the shop for adjustment... neck relief is not about string height

[/quote']

If you want the 'standard' Gibson factory setting,, use a business card as your gauge; that's going to be about 12thou.

 

note,, if you can do this, then your neck has the properly relief and does not need adjusting.

 

also to confirm that your Nut is doing its job, press the string at the 3rd fret with one hand.. while pushing the string over the 1st fret,

You should get some play in the string before it hits the 1st fret, if its a lot of play, your nut isn't deep enough, if the string is against the 1st fret the nut slots are too deep.

 

Height of the strings is adjusted and the bridge (with the stop tail adjusted so the string break over the back of the bridge is such that the strings don't touch the back of the bridge)

[Townes]

The best compromise is to leave your 'gamers' in the hands of experienced professionals but get a couple of Asian-made clunkers to practice your luthier skills on. That way you won't screw up your good one because you don't know what you're doing but you'll still have something with which to improve your skills.

 

 

Good advice!

[NeoConMan]

So I guess it would be pretty cool to answer politely to the questions asked on the site

No offense intended' date=' just trying to prevent one more Gibson from going to the woodpile.

 

Your question lacked the details you felt compelled to add after the fact.

Sounded to me like a newbie question.

I've seen plenty of broken truss rods and ruined Gibson necks.

 

Rocket science?

No.

I'm sure most of the people who destroyed their guitar were fairly confident they were doing the right thing.

 

Consider my comment a Public Service Announcement.

If your skill level is above what was first ascertained, then more power to ya.

 

[tulsaslim]

Yeah, remember that all we know about you is what you write. We have no way of knowing whether you know what you're talking about or not unless you clue us in.

Had you said "My luthier advised me to adjust the truss rod. How do I do it?" And after we got done asking you "why didn't the luthier adjust if for you?" we would've said something like 'righty-tighty, lefty-loosy'. Righty to take out a bow, lefty to put some relief into it. Turn 1/8 turn per try and wait 5 or so minutes between turns. DON'T take off the strings before you do this. Do this under full string pressure.

[Shtew]

While a truss rod adjustment CAN affect the action, it isn't necessarily the right approach to adjust the action.

The truss rod adjusts the straightness of the neck to counteract string tension as well as the relative humidity content, and there needs to be a slight amount of "relief" to allow for string movement, but this is somewhat adjustable per one's own playing style.

If you play hard, you may need more relief than one who plays lighter, or in a different style, IE a blues rocker vs jazz player.

When changing string gauges and/or doing a set up, the order of events in adjusting is:

1. neck truss rod adjustment with desired relief

2. nut slots

3. saddle slots & action at the bridge

4. intonation

5. pickups

 

If you don't know what you're doing, then take it to someone who does.

It's not hard to learn how, but you can seriously cause some damage and/or achieve poor results.

 

Hope that helps!

 

SS

 

<http://www.stewsguitarworks.com/>

[Lakers_Fan]

the thickness off the strings nearly changed' date=' keep your hands off the trusrod.

 

Put your bridge lower, als low as you can go, until you get fretbuzz and then put it a bit higher so the fretbuzz is gone for 90%, the rest off the buzz will be gone after a week of playing.[/quote']

 

 

Why will the rest of the buzz be gone after a week of playing?