dbreslauer Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 This much. BTW - that is one nice looking LP! is that real? looks like a digital rendering to me... but even if it is, that is a really interesting top. :-) Andy, i am in agreement with less "recurve." Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabba2203 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 is that real? looks like a digital rendering to me... Really? Damn, it looks so real! Even down to the colored D'Addario string ball ends. I'm fooled. I thought it was real - nice looking too. Awesome flame top, gun metal hardware - beauty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 I agree less recurve. Well here's todays progress. Shaped the neck heel extension. This is way long right now but better too much than too little. Also got the headstock in total traction for gluing... Sad isn't it... My first attempt at cutting MOP inlays... Attempting the Rolls Royce logo. Start rough.... Glued on a better stencil to the rough outline and finished. Got tired so will finish the second R tomorrow. I plan on just duplicating the R I made by gluing it on the the piece once I get it roughed in. Then I will cut one of the R's so that they connect like the Rolls Symbol... It's hard not to get jaggy lines!!! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lungimsam Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Day - 10 Wow I got a Pinned Thread!!! Very cool! ( This isn't connect to a secret forum I don't know about called "Watch this idiot destroy his Guitar" is it?? Maybe you are about to get a job offer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryUK Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Andy. Couldn't you 'fine finish' the R's with a dremel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Andy. Couldn't you 'fine finish' the R's with a dremel? Lashurst Thanks, I was using a dermal to begin with using fine engraving bits... problem is round tool is going to create jaggy's. I have a couple of ideas that might clean it up a bit more and I might try a couple more before I commit. But not too bad for my first time so far I think. Any other suggestions and ideas welcome! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-7 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Found a pretty interesting page on how this guy inlays MoP in case you want to take a look Andy. http://www.inlay.com/inlay/pearl/pearl-1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrosurfer1959 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Excellent work Andy and you definitely get extra points for doing **** the hard way. The inlay cuts are always a challenge if you don't have one already make yourself a v-block (below) to hold the material when sawing with a jewlers saw, use a fine blade in your jaw with a lot of soap or wax to reduce friction and let the saw do the work which cuts down on the jaggies. A Dremel won't work too much heat and chipping but I have had good luck softly scraping with a pointed #2 x-acto blade (you'll definitely donate more blood). If your material is to thin to cut you can glue in onto card stock that you then can remove with a wet cloth later. The cutting of the inlay channel is even more fun to experiment with and try to get clean and tight cuts I use a precision router base from Stew Mac and it's the only tool I can't live without when doing inlay work. Also save all the dust as that dust mixed into a paste with some thin super glue will hide almost anything. The coffee staining looks great and is one of my favorite finishes although I use a strong tea solution because I seem to get much more consistent colors and a cleaner finish with a lot less time in the liquid. Great job rolling with the flow when stuff goes wrong the true difference between a pro and a beginner, as you've shown almost anything can be fixed if you take your time and don't lose your temper which can be hard I was working on this mermaid and am probably 70% done doing the inlay when I got in a rush to clamp it down so I could do some graved lines and the Ebony split. I haven't decide if I will save it or throw it out the window yet so it's sitting to the side on the bench until I cool down enough to logically decide. V-Block precision Router - the best tool Stew Mac makes for inlay Broken Mermaid inlay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabba2203 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 retrosurfer1959, that mermaid was sweet! Sorry she broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Excellent work Andy and you definitely get extra points for doing **** the hard way. The inlay cuts are always a challenge if you don't have one already make yourself a v-block (below) to hold the material when sawing with a jewlers saw, use a fine blade in your jaw with a lot of soap or wax to reduce friction and let the saw do the work which cuts down on the jaggies. A Dremel won't work too much heat and chipping but I have had good luck softly scraping with a pointed #2 x-acto blade (you'll definitely donate more blood). If your material is to thin to cut you can glue in onto card stock that you then can remove with a wet cloth later. The cutting of the inlay channel is even more fun to experiment with and try to get clean and tight cuts I use a precision router base from Stew Mac and it's the only tool I can't live without when doing inlay work. Also save all the dust as that dust mixed into a paste with some thin super glue will hide almost anything. The coffee staining looks great and is one of my favorite finishes although I use a strong tea solution because I seem to get much more consistent colors and a cleaner finish with a lot less time in the liquid. Great job rolling with the flow when stuff goes wrong the true difference between a pro and a beginner, as you've shown almost anything can be fixed if you take your time and don't lose your temper which can be hard I was working on this mermaid and am probably 70% done doing the inlay when I got in a rush to clamp it down so I could do some graved lines and the Ebony split. I haven't decide if I will save it or throw it out the window yet so it's sitting to the side on the bench until I cool down enough to logically decide. V-Block precision Router - the best tool Stew Mac makes for inlay Broken Mermaid inlay Wow man that is awesome!!! Sorry it cracked but I bet there is a way to fix or hide the crack. Like you said you just have to be creative I did a little better tonight and am getting closer. This still needs cleaned up a bit more but I think it at least shows improvement. I do have the stew mac router base which is nice and I have the jewelers saw which I used tonight but didn't think about soap and wax. I have also used the dust and super glue trick for years on neck chips and it does work well. I will try the tea on another experiment stick and see how it turns out and thanks for the tips.!!! I'll take all ya got! Thanks again for the tips I really appreciate it. And welcome input from anyone who would like to share. Regards, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimbabig Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Retro, what kind of tea do you use, how dark do you make it, and how hot should it be when you dip?1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Excellent work Andy and you definitely get extra points for doing **** the hard way. The inlay cuts are always a challenge if you don't have one already make yourself a v-block (below) to hold the material when sawing with a jewlers saw, use a fine blade in your jaw with a lot of soap or wax to reduce friction and let the saw do the work which cuts down on the jaggies. A Dremel won't work too much heat and chipping but I have had good luck softly scraping with a pointed #2 x-acto blade (you'll definitely donate more blood). If your material is to thin to cut you can glue in onto card stock that you then can remove with a wet cloth later. The cutting of the inlay channel is even more fun to experiment with and try to get clean and tight cuts I use a precision router base from Stew Mac and it's the only tool I can't live without when doing inlay work. Also save all the dust as that dust mixed into a paste with some thin super glue will hide almost anything. The coffee staining looks great and is one of my favorite finishes although I use a strong tea solution because I seem to get much more consistent colors and a cleaner finish with a lot less time in the liquid. Great job rolling with the flow when stuff goes wrong the true difference between a pro and a beginner, as you've shown almost anything can be fixed if you take your time and don't lose your temper which can be hard I was working on this mermaid and am probably 70% done doing the inlay when I got in a rush to clamp it down so I could do some graved lines and the Ebony split. I haven't decide if I will save it or throw it out the window yet so it's sitting to the side on the bench until I cool down enough to logically decide. V-Block precision Router - the best tool Stew Mac makes for inlay Broken Mermaid inlay So how much to make me a Rolls Royce Logo in Pearl???? Sometimes you need to outsource... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Found a pretty interesting page on how this guy inlays MoP in case you want to take a look Andy. http://www.inlay.com...rl/pearl-1.html Thanks I had found this site too! I really appreciate you taking the time to post this though... Regards, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrosurfer1959 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 So how much to make me a Rolls Royce Logo in Pearl???? Sometimes you need to outsource... Andy Your newest one is Fine Andy, the shape is great, The only trick I can pass on is to use the finest blade you can keep from breaking, wax or even bar soap on the blade for lube, cut just outside of your lines and then when you get it as close as you have. Then just clean it up with a tiny needle file until your satisfied with the smoothness. Like I said above though that last R looks good just some light cleanup and your ready to route and install. My first inlay was a sea turtle with a W that I cut out in one piece (don't know what I was thinking) it was at least that rough and it turned out great after some clean-up. My biggest issue was inlaying it in Cocobolo, I love the wood but dang it's kind of like routing concrete and the dust is not only toxic but it stains everything, including your hands a bright orange color. After making that acoustic I looked like the worlds tallest Ooompa loompa for a week. Although it was worth it still one of my favorites has a great tone and feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimbabig Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Damn Retro, that is one sharp looking guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
57classic Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Gorgeous work Retro. I'd love to play that baby. I like the wide grain spruce as well as the cocobolo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabba2203 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Very nice Work retrosurfer1959!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Your newest one is Fine Andy, the shape is great, The only trick I can pass on is to use the finest blade you can keep from breaking, wax or even bar soap on the blade for lube, cut just outside of your lines and then when you get it as close as you have. Then just clean it up with a tiny needle file until your satisfied with the smoothness. Like I said above though that last R looks good just some light cleanup and your ready to route and install. My first inlay was a sea turtle with a W that I cut out in one piece (don't know what I was thinking) it was at least that rough and it turned out great after some clean-up. My biggest issue was inlaying it in Cocobolo, I love the wood but dang it's kind of like routing concrete and the dust is not only toxic but it stains everything, including your hands a bright orange color. After making that acoustic I looked like the worlds tallest Ooompa loompa for a week. Although it was worth it still one of my favorites has a great tone and feel. Retro you are quite the luthier! Very nice work indeed. You should start a post with your builds so everyone can see. Thanks for the encouragement on my work. I cleaned the R up a bit more last night but I'm afraid I am going to clean it up to nothing but dust! I'm going to order a couple more blanks from Stew McD as even if I get this one looking right I will have to try to duplicate it which is going to be tuff. I might also try a few more times until I feel they are right. Thanks again for the encouragement and the pics of your beautiful work! Andy Here is my R cleaned up a little more. Still needs some work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Need some help and info from anyone who can provide it. Could someone with a Custom provide me some more measurements than the ones provided below. I would like to also know the distance from the edge of the nut ( fretboard edge) to the center of the bottom of the little V cut in the top. Measurements to the top, center and bottom of the peg head holes from the bottom of the veneer to running lines left and right. Same measurements running up and down. Any more details would be appreciated. Measurements inside the binding would be good and binding thickness would also be great. Thanks to any that help. Andy I would also like to know if anyone knows the pancake body thickness of the 72-73 era lespaul that had mahogany, maple mahogany and 3 piece maple top. I would likr to know the layer thickness of each layer. that build up the body thickness before the top is applied. Again this would be very helpful and great info for me. Thanks in advance!!! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARECTORsr. Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 keep up the great work andy....i'm awful proud of you..love dad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 keep up the great work andy....i'm awful proud of you..love dad... Thanks Pop! As you can see there are a lot of very cool, helpful and encouraging people on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Well I got some answers to my pancake question on the les paul thread but still looking for Custom headstock specs. I drew some rough outlines on my now extended headstock using the info from the measurements from the pic I posted. I tried to paint the binding area to get a feel for the size of this thing but the blue sharpie ran into it so it is a real rough idea. This thing just seems huge to me and would make a good boat oar if needed. So if anyone can provide more measurements I would really appreciate it! Pic of my rough shape. If this is right I'm going to have to cut the top of the headstock and add some mahogany there too. Got my headstock veneer today too! Got plenty to practice on or perhaps just make one huge headstock!!! Hope to get a bunch done this weekend so keep checking in!!! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 So I was able to answer my own questions about the headstock. I imported the image into Adobe illustrator and set the scale to the listed measurements and printed it. Now I have an accurate template!! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitargreg1993 Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 keep up the great work andy....i'm awful proud of you..love dad... Hey Papa R!! Welcome to the forum as you can see your son is pretty much amazing at all this stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy R Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hey Papa R!! Welcome to the forum as you can see your son is pretty much amazing at all this stuff... Thanks man that was very nice of you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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