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Dom_JEM

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My Ash Strat has a completely different "Strat Voice " than my Old Poplar one, which is an '88. I change the Pick Ups from the original, humdrum single coils found in most '80s Fenders with some Lace Sensor, and it kept it's "Voice", it has more Power and clarity, but the same Voice.

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  • 2 years later...

The type of wood has a more profound effect on acoustic guitars that electrics as they are more relaint on the wood density and vibrations whereas an electric solid body guitar is more dependant on the density of the wood other than other factors as the density greatly affects the vibration and sustaining properties.

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Happy Birthday to this thread! Two years old this very day month!

 

My, I remember when it was just a young baby and several of the previous posters had yet to be banned...

 

How time flies!

 

P.

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Although different woods will sound different due to several factors including density, moisture retention and grain patterns, and even inconsistencies within a single wood species, there's another factor that can greatly influence the wood's character.

 

Multi-piece bodies and necks. As soon as you introduce Glue into the equation, Wood species takes a secondary role. The resonant properties of a multi-piece guitar is based on the quality of the glue that holds it together, and the quality of the gluing job that was done on it. If there are gaps or bubbles between two pieces of wood, they won't transfer vibrations properly. If properly glued, Then wood species can be taken into consideration.

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IMHO, I believe the type of wood has much less effect on the sound of a guitar than the cumulative effects of hollow v. semi-hollow v. solid body construction, pickups, strings, picks, amps, pedals, and ambiance.

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On the Epi/Gibson debate, I have to report a contrary result to many of the posters. I recently repaired a new Epi Les Paul Studio with a mulit-piece walnut body and a broken headstock. Although I'm not keen on the liquid poly finish, the quality of the instrument was otherwise excellent, it sustains forever, and (unlike my new ES 355) was easy to tune, no "sticking" in the nut. I was putting it together as a gift for a high school student who lost his guitar under some dubious circumstances, and was somewhat tempted to keep it.

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I think the pickguard is the most important. It adds so much tone.

 

 

Absouloutly! So few people realize that the old growth Dupont plastic found on the '59 Les Paul pickguard sounds so much better that the modern asian-sourced plastic! It adds a depth and sweetness to the tone that you just can't get from modern materials. Also the old craftsmen used to hand shape and thickness each one, tuning them to each particular instrument. Now they're just a souless machine thicknessed piece of plastic. I hear however, that on the highest custom shop models, they are using a stock of ancient plastic found in Michigan, hand shaped by a 95 year-old ex-employee of the Kalamazoo plant.

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I used to own two Epi LPs- a studio and a standard plus. Unplugged, both sounded great- very resonant and the standard plus in particular had an amazingly fat, deep tone to it but the studio felt nicer to play. Anyway, pickup upgrades brought them right up there in to Gibby territory in terms of tones.

 

However, what this thread hasn't considered yet (I don't think) is the quality, craftsmanship and feel difference. My Gibbys are both faded/satin models and the quality of the wood is there for all to see with beautiful grain showing through. What's more, better quality wood is much easier to work with so the craftsmanship has a better chance of being superior. What I also like is the feel of those better woods. Both my Gibbys have a great fretboard and play like butter with only minor set up tweaks.

 

Same argument goes for my superstrats. While my cheap and cheerful Kramer Pacer Classic is a blast to play and offers amazing value, my USA Charvel and my J-Craft Ibanez Prestige have a real feel of quality feel when you pick them up and play them.

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The most important factor in the color , or colur if you're a fer'ner, of the guitar. Orange or yellow burst guitars sound warmer than black ones. Greens ones sound cool. Blue guitars sounds best when stacked in a pile and burned. Never play a blue guitar.

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You guys have it all wrong. It is, always has been, always will be, the factory in <Most Favored Asian Manufacturing Nation du jour Of The Day> that it was made at that matters. The current factory is never as good as the last factory, that's about the only rule you can follow.

 

rct

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So to compile the opinions: The best sounding instrument is a a solid old-growth mahogany and maple instrument, finished in nitrocellulose, with the correct aged plastic parts, colored red, and manufactured in the Xhing Ju "People's Glorious Factory for Production of Electric Guitar #1 " between April 7 and May 12 of 2011 ( QC went to hell on May 13th)............. but only if you pull the right face while playing it.

 

They're an odd lot on this board...........

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I had an Epi SG Jr. with a P-90.

Sounded pretty damned good for a $90 guitar.

 

The wood felt like Balsa.

 

 

 

I had an Epi "Korina" 58-style Flying V - completely rewired with Duncan pickups.

Sounded pretty damned good too - if a bit thin and harsh.

The veneer made it look good at first glance, but the wood inside was almost like chalk....

 

 

With both guitars, I did not have the luxury of comparing them to their Gibson inspirations.

Both were made in Korea in the late nineties, both played well, both made of sh!t wood.

 

If you see the opening scenes of the movie It Might Get Loud, you'll see what I mean.

 

 

Me?

I will NOT be paying money for Chinese Mystery Wood, no matter what kind of veneer they stick on it.

Good to have you back!!

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